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Ford ESP (Extended Service Plan)


Markn455
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She charged me $2,800.00 for that warranty.

 

Caveat Emptor my friends.......

 

Well put - one of the gimmicks I have seen over and over (and mentioned it in this thread or others) is that the finance will talk about some special deal they have going on, or that for a limited time you can buy at employee prices, blah blah blah.  Did they tell you that with the $2,800 i.e., was normally $3,295 or whatever?

 

When I bought my Prius years ago the Toyota finance guy said that I was the *first* customer in his four years of working there that did not buy the extended warranty.  I said well now I feel special but still don't want to buy it right now... I didn't like his condescending attitude anyway, did not rate him high on my dealer survey,

 

Anyway, on a different purchase at a Ford dealer the sales rep and I were waiting for the finance guy to become available so I told him about the above with the Toyota guy.  He said that of course was a load of crap, and from his 30+ years of experience he estimated the purchase rate on extended warranties when buying a new car to be about 70%.

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Hi Jeff,

 

Actually she didn't. I'm fairly immune to the Finance people, and their BS. I will say that I HAVE heard everyone of those lines you mentioned in the past. As a matter of fact my last new car, a 2014 Honda CRV, the dweeb tried the old, "In all my years, I've never had anyone NOT buy an extended warranty contract!" I simply told him I was honored to be his first....lol...he was pissed.

 

I have to say, although I had maybe the worst car buying experience EVER with this dealership (in 35 years of buying new cars), I mostly blame her, the salesperson a little bit as well, seeing I just handed him a sale on a car that they couldn't move on their own. Right before both Christmas AND end of year totals.

 

I have to emphasize, that aside from her outright illegal lie (that credit required it), it was still MY responsibility to read the fine print. I didn't. I can offer up many reasons, including the 300 mile round trip ACROSS NYC, at rush hour (took over 5 hours, all highway) but that is no excuse.

 

All these damn years and I'm STILL learning......guess that called life...lol

 

PS:The person at Flood Ford was outstanding to work with. No fuss, no muss. You can also pay with PayPal, affording you yet another layer of protection.

 

No, I don't work for Ford, or any other automotive entity. I'm a pilot.....lol....

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Same experience here, I think I've bought 5 from them in the past few years

Yep,

 

Last comment from me would be, I checked every single quote from every online source, and, Ford directly.

Flood beat them all....most substantially.

 

Take care...

Bill

Edited by Boston_Pilot
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About to pull the trigger on an ESP through flood as soon as my tax return comes in. Is the light plan worth it? I know the manual says you have to remove the front bumper to change the bulb, and if I get the Premium plan (likely) I get a rental car if it takes more than the day I bring it in. Conversely, if I get the light plan and the bulbs never go out, I'll kick myself for "wasting' the money. My morning commute usually means I'm leaving with headlights on, so it's not like I'm a daytime only driver that barely uses the lights. Just seemed high to get the bulb plan, but then again the first time the front bulb goes I'll wonder if I should have bought the bulb plan. I intend to get the 8 year ESP since I hold onto my cars, so the bulb plan may be the way to go. Thoughts?

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It's $75.00, $40.00 was the one day rental. And yes, your deductible applies.

 

Must be different pricing depending on the warranty or year of vehicle, as when I've picked the $100 and $50 deductible plan, it shows $175 for the bulb fee. I'm not worried about a one day rental, I've got another vehicle if it's a day thing. If it's an overnight, I'll gladly take the rental that comes with PremiumCare.

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That was my next question - which plan did you go with? I was looking at 8/150, as I tend to drive cars until they give up on me. I only bought my Fusion because of a car accident in a 2004 that was totaled. It had over 200,000 miles and would have made it to 300,000 easy. My 2006 Mariner has 214,000, with only cosmetic issues. I had to have the thermostat replaced on the Mariner, and that wasn't cheap. But the killer was the power steering module going out. So an ESP with just those two issues, and I'm coming out ahead.

 

Twice as much mileage and two extra years, so there's the change in bulb price. I have a job that requires me to drive, so unless I change jobs, I'll probably hit the mileage before the years, but not by much. I don't think I'll put 25,000 a year, so a 7 or 8 year plan is the way to go for me. I just have to figure out how much I drove the past few years and do the math.

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This is actually the first NEW car I've ever purchased off the lot. I did buy a truck after the lease ended, but I didn't plan to and only did because I was way over on mileage and it would have cost me more to simply get rid of it versus buying it and keeping it. All my other vehicles have been used, and I drove them into the ground or lost them due to accidents.

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  • 4 weeks later...

It's a credit.....not a refund. So unless you owe thousands to the Feds.......you're going to be rudely awakened.

 

Let me to try clarify this a bit. What Boston_Pilot is saying is this.

 

There are tax deductions. These reduce your taxable income. If you are in the 25% bracket and claim a deduction of $1000 then you net $250 less in actual taxes.

 

There are tax credits. These reduce your final tax liability. If you claim a credit of $1000 then you net $1000 less in actual taxes.

 

There are two broad categories of tax credits: refundable and nonrefundable. A refundable tax credit is subtracted off of your tax liability and is allowed to lower it below zero. A nonrefundable tax credit is subtracted off or your tax liability, but it is not allowed to reduce it below zero and it cannot be carried over to the next tax year.

 

The amount of money you "owe" or expect as a "refund" at tax filing time has absolutely no bearing on whether you can maximize a tax credit. The reason being that if your federal tax payroll deductions are too small then you must pay the negative balance of your tax bill at filing time. If your federal tax payroll deductions are too large then you get the positive balance of your tax bill back at filing time. If you had no federal tax payroll deductions throughout the year and your tax liability is large then you would still "owe" the IRS money while simultaneously claiming the EV tax credit. It just means that you write your check for $4,007 less than you would have.

 

The easiest way to determine if you qualify for the full $4,007 credit is look at line 47 on your 2015 1040 form. If that line is >= $4,007 and your income and filing status have not dramatically changed in 2016 then you will likely be able to claim the full $4,007 amount. If, for example, line 47 is $2,000 then you can only claim $2,000 of the $4,007 credit.

Edited by bdginmo
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Yes, it was a new car purchase. Yes, I filled out the form with the maximum allowable amount of $4007 as specified on the IRS's website. If I removed that credit, my refund dropped by $4007 dollars.

 

Please, no "you should adjust your tax amount so the government doesn't a free loan from you" discussions. I thought I was doing the right thing once before, and one year ended up owing several thousand dollars that if not for a job change, I was going to be hard pressed to pay. I'm fine with having a large refund instead of a large payment. My life situation has been fluid the past few years, so I'd rather have more money taken out than not enough.

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Yeah, you're not going to get a lecture from me. Most bank savings account deposit rates are damn near close to 0%. Whether you pay now, pay later, or get a refund isn't going to affect your bottom line by more than a few bucks. Even if you could find a 1% deposit account the amount of money you lose on $4000 is like $20 (because the average deposit balance is $2000).

 

Anyway, back on topic.Flood Ford just processed my order. 7yr/125,000mi PremiumCare plan for $1485. Note, that I was outside the 12 month/12,000 mile period so I had an extra surcharge. That's still not bad though. Ziegler and Anderson&Koch are other competitive ESP providers that you might want to check out.

 

Also, did I mention that when we got our 2017 Ford Explorer a few weeks ago I tried getting the finance guy to match the online ESP prices? He gave me his rock bottom price which was $400 more than Flood Ford.

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*BIG SNIP*

 

 

Anyway, back on topic.Flood Ford just processed my order. 7yr/125,000mi PremiumCare plan for $1485. Note, that I was outside the 12 month/12,000 mile period so I had an extra surcharge. That's still not bad though. Ziegler and Anderson&Koch are other competitive ESP providers that you might want to check out.

 

Also, did I mention that when we got our 2017 Ford Explorer a few weeks ago I tried getting the finance guy to match the online ESP prices? He gave me his rock bottom price which was $400 more than Flood Ford.

I myself just did a 6yr/75K Flood deal......(2nd time actually) and it was very reasonable. I wanna say it was $800.00 out the door. Both options. Lights/1st Rental.

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  • 2 years later...

In 2016 I bought a 2013 Ford Fusion Titanium Energi from Sneed Ford (who sells a lot of buy backs). It was for my dad and it was under a 1 yr/12k bumper to bumper warranty and the balance of the powertrain. I bought the PremiumCare for 5 years 75K on that started when I got it so he won't have any out of the pocket cost. Since it was a first year production loaded with expensive to repair/replace options I felt that the 2200 I spent was well worth the peace of mind. Ironically he didn't drive it that much and had no issues but I will get it back soon and will be able to enjoy what is left of the coverage.

 

Thanks for the Flood Ford info. I checked online and only found 2 Ford dealers that sold online and picked the cheapest one (Lombard Ford?) and had Sneed price match them.

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