HV Water Heater for Cabin Heat

[mmmhmmmm]

I'm considering unplugging the HV cabin water heater. This unit is connected to the high voltage battery and is a major power drain in cold weather - just watch the energy usage widget. I've noticed that the electric cabin heater runs even when the ICE is on. It goes off as you lower the temperature on the climate control eventually all the way to 60 or even Lo - even though there's residual heat left over from the ICE (see the engine temperature widget). I am really curious what will happen if I unplug it and run without this power goblin.

Edited February 8, 2014 at 09:07 PM by mmmhmmmm

[mmmhmmmm]

 

In the photo the car was running in EV NOW mode with a temp setting of 61, fan speed of low, some residual ICE heat indicated, and no climate kW usage (the cabin water heater was off). It was 5 outside but I was comfortable with no window fogging.

 

This is my annoying morning routine. I work the climate temperature between 65 and 60 to keep that cabin water heater from coming on and using the battery.

 

I drive almost 70 miles per day, can't charge at work (military base), and want to maximize battery range - even in cold weather. I paid for this HV battery to 'e' me to work, not to heat my butt! I can heat my butt by cycling the car into EV-LATER mode and kicking on the ICE when I feel cold.

 

For me it is silly to waste the HV battery to heat the cabin. Our hybrid doesn't do this and we get along fine. Of course the hybrid won't go 20-some miles in EV, but for crying out loud...give me some control!!

 

I need a Vehicle Setting to disable the HV Cabin Water Heater while the vehicle is operational.

Edited February 8, 2014 at 09:43 PM by mmmhmmmm

[mmmhmmmm]

Here were wiring diagrams regarding what I'm considering.

 

Cabin Coolant Heater:

 

 

There are 3 connectors to the ol Cabin Coolant Heater: C1815A, C1815B, and C1815C.

C1815A is a high voltage connector with the orange-harness and wires. I'm not messing with it.

Depending on how difficult it is to reach I will unplug C1815B and C1815C.

 

 

 

 

[Wiring Diagrams deleted as per murph  :clapping: ]

Edited February 9, 2014 at 03:00 AM by mmmhmmmm

[larryh]

If you disconnect the electric heating element, then you won't be able to precondition the car.   I find preconditioning the car with a 240 V charger in the Winter to be one of the most useful features of the car.  With preconditioning, I don't need to use climate control much during my 8 mile commute to work, only to defrost the windows once in a while.  It also helps warm up the coolant so when the ICE comes on, it doesn't have to run as long.  The ICE generally runs during my commute when it is below 0 F to heat up the coolant to around 105 F.   I haven't found a way to stop the ICE from running, but preheating the coolant with the EBH and via preconditioning shortens the time it runs. 

[murphy]

Two things.

 

I would expect at least one DTC if the heater stops working.

 

You have published pages from a copyrighted work.  Page 1-1 of the document specifically prohibits reproducing the document in any form.

Please delete the diagrams.

[mmmhmmmm]

With preconditioning, I don't need to use climate control much during my 8 mile commute to work, only to defrost the windows once in a while.  It also helps warm up the coolant so when the ICE comes on, it doesn't have to run as long.

 

Wow I wish I had an 8 mile commute! My commute is 34 miles, so no matter how light I am on the accelerator, the ICE is going to run. If I run the ICE in a calculated manner (use ICE for heat, EV mode for level and downhill stretches) I find that I can stretch the battery much longer and improve overall fuel efficiency of the commute.

[mmmhmmmm]

Two things.

 

I would expect at least one DTC if the heater stops working.

 

You have published pages from a copyrighted work.  Page 1-1 of the document specifically prohibits reproducing the document in any form.

Please delete the diagrams.

 

I'll have to experiment. The vehicle will probably throw a DTC, but if it continues to function as otherwise expected I might be good with that!

 

Thanks for the Page 1-1 alert murphy!

For those who missed the images they might have been from the 2013 Ford Fusion Hybrid/PEV Wiring Diagrams Manual 

[mmmhmmmm]

Check it out!! The answer was in this Ford Focus Electric forum.  :stop:

 

http://www.myfocuselectric.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=1687&p=8410&hilit=amazon.com#p8410

[larryh]

The 110 volt outlet in the car is only rated for 150 watts.

[jeff_h]

The 110 volt outlet in the car is only rated for 150 watts.

 

True, but the referenced post noted that the user wired a separate inverter directly to the 12V battery -- that may bring in other issues, but the person who posted it said things are working great for him.

[mmmhmmmm]

I would expect at least one DTC if the heater stops working.

 

 

I experimented this evening and unplugged the High Voltage Cabin Water Heater and went for a couple of

 

The climate system pulled precisely 0 kW with the car cold (30 degrees outside) and heater set to 80 degrees. 

 

The car operated fine except:

1) warning light (little wrench) and a nag message to check the owner's manual

2) vehicle would operate in EV mode at first, but once the ICE cycled, it would only operate in Auto EV mode (no EV Now or EV Later).

3) My Ford Mobile diligently alerted me that a warning light was on (I know this alert can be disabled in MFM)

 

Without EV Later disabling the Cabin Water Heater doesn't make sense. I plugged the Cabin Water Heater back in and decided to deal with it. After plugging it back in I power cycled the vehicle. The tiny warning wrench and nag alert are gone. 

 

Hey Ford! Many of us would LOVE to turn off the Cabin Water Heater in Vehicle Settings and conserve electric power for range. How about an Eco+ mode where climate systems don't drain the HV battery? BMW is providing this with their Eco Pro and Eco Pro+ modes on the upcoming i3.

 

Thank you.