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How does Fusion Energi perform after EV battery is depleted?


Blastphemy
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You're reading way too much into my question, meyersnole. If I wanted a Tesla, that's what I'd be getting.

 

All I want to know is whether the FFE is consistent regardless of the battery's SOC when driving in Auto EV mode at all times.

 

I'll likely never drive in EV Now mode since I find its acceleration decidedly insufficient at speeds over 50mph, and I don't want to be surprised if I need to maneuver safely at higher speeds.

 

As long as everyone's experience is that leaving the car in Auto EV at all times results in a consistent driving experience, regardless of the battery's state of charge, then I'll be quite happy.

 

But the impression I'm getting is that if I ever attempt a drive to Las Vegas from Los Angeles, the first 20-40 miles will be fine and then I'm going to suffer on the multi-mile inclines with everyone around me going 70-80 mph while the FFE will be struggling to keep up.

The answer(s) to your questions about hybrid mode might be found on the FFH forum since their cars are always hybrid.  The FFE actually performs better in hybrid mode than the FFH since the FFE battery is larger.

 

Ask a question like "Anyone driven to Vegas in their FFH?  How does the FFH respond to the long uphill portion of the trip?"

 

I have had both the FFH and FFE and the hybrid mode for the FFE is much better than the that of the FFH.

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I'll likely never drive in EV Now mode since I find its acceleration decidedly insufficient at speeds over 50mph, and I don't want to be surprised if I need to maneuver safely at higher speeds.

 

As long as everyone's experience is that leaving the car in Auto EV at all times results in a consistent driving experience, regardless of the battery's state of charge, then I'll be quite happy.

 

But the impression I'm getting is that if I ever attempt a drive to Las Vegas from Los Angeles, the first 20-40 miles will be fine and then I'm going to suffer on the multi-mile inclines with everyone around me going 70-80 mph while the FFE will be struggling to keep up.

 

To the first statement about stepping on the gas above 50mph in EV now. Originally I wanted to get upset and say "THATS NOT THE POINT OF THIS CAR", but you are exactly right, the FFE doesnt have much oomph above 50mph in electric only, but... thats not the point of this car. If you do get this car you will quickly learn that you want to be efficient as possible and use your elctric for speeds 30-40 and below. If you are getting on the freeway above 50mph for anything more then 1 exit (1 mile), switch to EV later.

 

To the 2nd part, about reduced performance, I would say you would be hard pressed to ever notice. 70-80 up hill, no problem. Now if you want to do a high speed run, and floor it till it runs out of gas, yeah ok you may notice reduced performance as there won't be as much electric assist.

 

I have done the drive from LA to Vegas (not in FFE) so I completely understand what your talking about. The key is, don't get on the freeway in EV Auto burn out all your battery, and then be in Hybrid only the rest of the drive. Get on the freeway, switch to EV Later, and drive to Vegas. Then when crawling around the strip use your battery.

 

What will happen on the drive is you will use some of your large battery, but when the car can recover, it will run the gas engine to recharge the spend electric, leaving you with a battery that is within 10% of when you put it in EV later.

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Thanks, larryh, JATR4, and Rexracer. I feel a lot better after reading your posts.

 

Unfortunately, driving from LA to Las Vegas (for example) isn't something one can do on a test drive, so it's the one thing about the car I won't be able to experience before buying it. Everything else I've been able to test to my satisfaction - its version of Adaptive Cruise Control, the sound system, interoperability with my iPhone, EV Now mode, EV Later mode, proving the car gets at least 18 EV miles the way I drive (likely more since my Volt and ELR have trained me to be efficient), how quickly the cooled seats work (and learning that they don't work at all in EV Now mode! Grrrr..), and everything else on my list. The car has performed beautifully, and the price is an excellent value IMHO... especially coming from an overpriced $79k Cadillac ELR!

 

If all works out, I'll have a loaded 2015 FFE Titanium (Tuxedo Black) in my driveway by tonight!

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However, in Hybrid Mode, when the SOC displayed on the 2-D battery icon fell below 40%, the maximum discharge power limit from the HVB suddenly dropped to 35 kW.  So the power output of the car is reduced when in hybrid mode and the SOC shown on the 2D battery icon falls below 40%.  If you don't want this, simply don't allow the car to enter hybrid mode.  Switch to EV later mode before the car enters hybrid mode.

 

Interesting. Good to know that the max electric power available stays high in EV later mode. On my road trips I usually switch from EV Now to EV Later when the battery gets down 70 or 80%. Some of the battery gets used when the silly car switches back to EV Auto when re-starting before I remember to switch it back to EV Later. I finally switch to EV Now when I get close enough to home at the end of the trip to not need gasoline any more. I use downhill grades to recharge back up the battery.

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Thanks, larryh, JATR4, and Rexracer. I feel a lot better after reading your posts.

 

Unfortunately, driving from LA to Las Vegas (for example) isn't something one can do on a test drive, so it's the one thing about the car I won't be able to experience before buying it. Everything else I've been able to test to my satisfaction - its version of Adaptive Cruise Control, the sound system, interoperability with my iPhone, EV Now mode, EV Later mode, proving the car gets at least 18 EV miles the way I drive (likely more since my Volt and ELR have trained me to be efficient), how quickly the cooled seats work (and learning that they don't work at all in EV Now mode! Grrrr..), and everything else on my list. The car has performed beautifully, and the price is an excellent value IMHO... especially coming from an overpriced $79k Cadillac ELR!

 

If all works out, I'll have a loaded 2015 FFE Titanium (Tuxedo Black) in my driveway by tonight!

One suggestion.  Learn how the push button start works.  Sounds stupid but is very important.  One person on this forum let his car roll into the wall of a parking garage when he thought he had started the car and had only turned on the accessories--reduced braking since the car didn't start.  Never a problem if you push the start button AFTER pushing on the brake pedal.  Most of us have done this--pushed the start button prior to stepping on the brake.  It only takes a fraction of a second to get two different results.  And the only indication is the Ready to Drive light never comes on.  So if you shift to reverse and the car hasn't "started" there will be no engine power and reduced braking since the car never started and pushing the start button now is to no avail UNLESS you put the car in either neutral or park, push on the brake, and push the start button again.

 

Good luck.

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One suggestion.  Learn how the push button start works.  Sounds stupid but is very important.  One person on this forum let his car roll into the wall of a parking garage when he thought he had started the car and had only turned on the accessories--reduced braking since the car didn't start.  Never a problem if you push the start button AFTER pushing on the brake pedal.  Most of us have done this--pushed the start button prior to stepping on the brake.

 

Thanks for pointing out that feature. Are you saying the Fusion lets you put it in gear with only the accessories powered on? Yikes!

 

Fortunately, I've owned only push-button start cars since 2008 (starting with my Infiniti M45), so I'm pretty much 100% trained to never press the start button without first having my foot on the brake. (Which means you'll all see a post from me next week about accidentally letting my new car roll into a charging station! lol.)

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 ...Are you saying the Fusion lets you put it in gear with only the accessories powered on?...

 

Sequence (1):  Push the start button, brake, and shift into reverse.  Or, sequence (2):  Brake, push the start button, and shift into reverse.

 

Different orders with different results. 

 

Sequence (1) results in car in reverse with no power, reduced braking and will not start until returned to either neutral or reverse. 

 

Sequence (2) is the correct  method and you are good to go!!!

 

I have made this mistake more than once.  Since there is no noise from the motor, it is not an obvious error if you do not look for the ready to drive light.

 

The first night I had my FFE it was raining and the interior lights had been turned off by the dealer.  I was trying to link a garage door opener to the Homelink at my daughter's house and had driven a few blocks away.  I inadvertently turned the car off while in drive and was clueless how to get it started again since I didn't realize it was in drive.  Luckily I was on level ground so the car didn't roll.  I finally figured it out after several minutes.  The problem is that a small error can lead to confusion and mild panic--at least in my case.

 

You can stop this car while it is running by pressing on the start button.  I have done this when parking the car.  It is probably a good habit to apply the parking brake when stopping--an extra level of safety.

 

The engine can also be stopped while driving if the start button is held a couple of seconds which results in lack of power steering and reduced braking.  If that ever happens you have to press on the brake, move the gearshift to neutral and press the start button.

Edited by JATR4
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We drove from MN to Palm Desert through the mountains. We used EV Later when driving for hundreds of miles on the interstate. In EV Later climbing the mountains we saw the car show 50+ kW coming from the ICE with minimal electrical assist because the amount of kWh allowed to be used from the HVB in EV Later had been depleted. Changing the car to EV Auto resulted in about 35 kW of discharge from the HVB with the ICE providing the remaining ~15-20 kW needed for climbing the mountains. Going downhill we were able to put multiple kWhs back into the HVB.

 

Our full description is here: http://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/9689-road-trip-observations-with-torque-pro/

 

You might find some of my notes interesting regarding driving on the ICE for the long trip.

Edited by Hybridbear
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We drove from MN to Palm Desert through the mountains. We used EV Later when driving for hundreds of miles on the interstate. In EV Later climbing the mountains we saw the car show 50+ kW coming from the ICE with minimal electrical assist because the amount of kWh allowed to be used from the HVB in EV Later had been depleted. Changing the car to EV Auto resulted in about 35 kW of discharge from the HVB with the ICE providing the remaining ~15-20 kW needed for climbing the mountains. Going downhill we were able to put multiple kWhs back into the HVB.

 

Our full description is here: http://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/9689-road-trip-observations-with-torque-pro/

 

You might find some of my notes interesting regarding driving on the ICE for the long trip.

That is precisely how I run my E-Max Energi on longer trips. I reserve the HVB while in EV Later, then for a larger uphill I kick into EV Auto so the battery can assist. I pick up charge on long downhill slopes. Good to see someone else doing similar stuff.

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