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Does anyone use the 'Auto' setting by choice?


Bud
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Approaching 500 miles on the new FFE  :dance:

 

I've learned a ton from reading about others' experiences here on the forum. I think I've read nearly every thread in this sub-forum.

 

I've found that when I have enough battery power to choose settings, I either keep it in EV or EV Later. I've discovered EV is the most efficient in heavy traffic or areas with a ton of stop lights... and on pretty level grade. If it gets hilly - with lots of ups and downs, I put it into EV later... then back to EV when conditions are as mentioned above. Even in EV later, the car acts like a hybrid - conserving plug-in power unless the load is light.

 

I can't see any reason to use Auto unless forced to by an empty battery. Am I missing something?? If given a choice, is Auto for lazy people who don't want to geek out and maximize range?  :)  Auto seems to use the electric drive even when it may not be very efficient.

 

Another observation... I've noticed If I just leave the vehicle in EV later, it appears the car may be the most efficient for every situation as it still goes into EV quite a bit when it senses electric drive is more efficient - like heading downhill, stopped, coasting, etc.

 

Has anyone tested a variable route - leaving the vehicle in each mode over the entire route? For instance, place the car in Auto then drive a pre-planned loop with grade changes, surface streets, freeways, lights, etc. Then do the same route in EV and then EV later.

 

I wonder how the three modes would compare to one another in such a test.

 

 

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As long as there is juice in my battery the car is in EV mode.  I have PV solar panels and electricity costs me nothing.  The exceptions are if I take a trip where I want to preserve the battery or winter time since I have to burn the gas before it gets to be 18 months old.  I last bought gas in June 2014 and there is still 1/3 of a tank left.  My longest regular trip is 10.4 miles.  Easily done all electric in the warm weather but not possible when it is freezing outside.

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I keep the car in EV Now most of the year.  I do EV Later if I get on the highway.  However, once winter arrives, I go ahead and drop the car back in to EV Auto.  It's been so cold here in Michigan for the last couple winters that most of the time, the car forces the ICE on anyway, and I prefer to drive with heat.  In Auto, the car will run the ICE and battery in parallel until it is warmed up, and then it will occasionally run the ICE while trying to stay in EV as much as it can.  Auto mode allows the ICE to start sooner in cold weather.  EV Now lowers the temperature threshold for having the ICE start, but even with only a 5 mile round trip commute, preconditioning, and all that, the ICE STILL starts most days.

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Approaching 500 miles on the new FFE  :dance:

 

I've learned a ton from reading about others' experiences here on the forum. I think I've read nearly every thread in this sub-forum.

 

I've found that when I have enough battery power to choose settings, I either keep it in EV or EV Later. I've discovered EV is the most efficient in heavy traffic or areas with a ton of stop lights... and on pretty level grade. If it gets hilly - with lots of ups and downs, I put it into EV later... then back to EV when conditions are as mentioned above. Even in EV later, the car acts like a hybrid - conserving plug-in power unless the load is light.

 

I can't see any reason to use Auto unless forced to by an empty battery. Am I missing something?? If given a choice, is Auto for lazy people who don't want to geek out and maximize range?  :)  Auto seems to use the electric drive even when it may not be very efficient.

 

Another observation... I've noticed If I just leave the vehicle in EV later, it appears the car may be the most efficient for every situation as it still goes into EV quite a bit when it senses electric drive is more efficient - like heading downhill, stopped, coasting, etc.

 

Has anyone tested a variable route - leaving the vehicle in each mode over the entire route? For instance, place the car in Auto then drive a pre-planned loop with grade changes, surface streets, freeways, lights, etc. Then do the same route in EV and then EV later.

 

I wonder how the three modes would compare to one another in such a test.

C-Max here. I use Auto when going uphill, so that the battery can assist the ICE. I also use it on downhills, so that excess energy can be stored in the HVB by going back to EV Later at the bottom of the hill. (you could do the downhill by pressing the EV button three times if you like).

 

Very occasionally, I know that I'm in range for using the EV Auto to get home, and I'll turn it on for the ride home. I do that coming back from a relative's house, which is almost exactly the distance that the car can go EV Auto at 65 MPH, and then switch back to EV Now when off the freeway, and still get home on the battery.

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I leave my car in Auto 95% of the time and never think about it. Having tested my own manual use of EV Now/EV Later vs. just leaving the car in EV Auto, I discovered I use about 0.5 gallons more of gas in Auto over the course of a full tank. I think I can live with an extra 0.5 gallons used over the course of 2-3 months between fill-ups!

 

The best part of Auto EV is that if I encounter a situation where I need more acceleration than EV Now provides, all I have to do it press the accelerator harder and the gas automatically comes on to give me that extra oomph - without having to manually press "OK" to let the car know it's OK to give me some extra power by enabling the engine.

Edited by Blastphemy
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We keep the car in EV Now. We do not want the ICE to come on unless we instruct it to come on. We go months without having the ICE turn on. In our normal driving we only use the HVB. Thus we want it in EV Now to ensure that the ICE does not come on. This is especially important in the winter, since EV Now lowers the threshold for activating the ICE.

 

When we are driving long distances on the freeway where we must use gas, we switch to EV Later for high speed driving. It is best to conserve some of your HVB charge until the very end of any trip where you are going to fully deplete the HVB. When the HVB is fully depleted & the car will not allow you to select EV Now, the HVB is in a more fragile state. At this point the cell voltage is lowest & the cell voltage variation is highest. This is the most taxing state for the HVB. Avoiding this low level of charge as much as possible is a smart course of action for HVB longevity.

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C-Max here. I use Auto when going uphill, so that the battery can assist the ICE. I also use it on downhills, so that excess energy can be stored in the HVB by going back to EV Later at the bottom of the hill. (you could do the downhill by pressing the EV button three times if you like).

 

Very occasionally, I know that I'm in range for using the EV Auto to get home, and I'll turn it on for the ride home. I do that coming back from a relative's house, which is almost exactly the distance that the car can go EV Auto at 65 MPH, and then switch back to EV Now when off the freeway, and still get home on the battery.

 

Is that like clicking your heels together three times? :hysterical:

 

What does pressing the button three times do? I recall seeing it mentioned in another thread with no explanation.

Edited by Bud
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Is that like clicking your heels together three times? :hysterical:

 

What does pressing the button three times do? I recall seeing it mentioned in another thread with no explanation.

It resets the charge level that the car is maintaining in EV Later. When you select EV Later the car remembers the charge level. When you first turn on the ICE it will try to charge the HVB. It basically stores that charge level as "half" full of the hybrid battery charge range.

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There is no reason to go into EV now unless you want the engine to not come on if you floor the car, or to lower the engine starting thresholds in cold weather when using electric heat, but there are limits to that, if its cold enough the engine is going to start anyways.

 

I use Auto all the time, hardly ever use EV now, you don't get better performance in EV now (more miles) than in Auto.  Auto gives me the Empower battery threshold to look at and see when the engine would come on based on the current battery level if I press the accelerator too hard.  EV now doesn't and you can floor the car without the engine coming on, but that's not good practice anyways for the battery in terms of treating it with care.

 

If you limit your power draw out of the battery to 2 bars, there is no need for Ev now to prevent the engine from starting.  In fact in Auto you get 4 bars before the engine would start, and that's alot so there is plenty of room for the engine not to start.  The thing is, if you need to get out of the way of something quick, in EV now you won't have full power from the car (in case of emergency) so I leave it in Auto all the time and take it easy with the power.  

 

When you first get this car, you think you need to put it in EV now all the time, I used to way early on, until you learn more about it and realize how things work.  FWIW, on the GPS EV now does give you definite and probable range rings, so you might like that until you learn more how far you can go based on other indicators such as the battery % level and miles on the battery or your MPGe trip stats.

 

-=>Raja.

Edited by rbort
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Does EV later work similar to Auto ... but maintain a minimum level of HVB charge?

 

I can't count the number of times I've been in EV Later and see the EV mode kick in on both surface streets and the freeway. Is this just the car utilizing the small hybrid portion of the HVB?

 

I'd love to know how to keep the car in the mode set when turned off so it doesn't default back to Auto every time it's started.

Edited by Bud
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Does EV later work similar to Auto ... but maintain a minimum level of HVB charge?

 

I can't count the number of times I've been in EV Later and see the EV mode kick in on both surface streets and the freeway. Is this just the car utilizing the small hybrid portion of the HVB?

 

I'd love to know how to keep the car in the mode set when turned off so it doesn't default back to Auto every time it's started.

 

EV Later works just like Auto does after the HVB is depleted... Except the HVB isn't depleted.

 

IIRC, when the HVB is depleted in Auto mode, the battery is actually at about 20%. 20% becomes the set point and then it works within +2/-5% of that. EV Later works the same, but the set point will be at a higher battery level.

 

In either, case, the car will still drop into electric drive as appropriate - It's functioning just like a non-plug-in hybrid.

 

I'm not sure why yours switches back to Auto all the time - Mine will stay in the last mode selected. At least, I'm usually in EV Now and it's still in EV Now when I turn it back in.

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Does EV later work similar to Auto ... but maintain a minimum level of HVB charge?

 

I can't count the number of times I've been in EV Later and see the EV mode kick in on both surface streets and the freeway. Is this just the car utilizing the small hybrid portion of the HVB?

 

I'd love to know how to keep the car in the mode set when turned off so it doesn't default back to Auto every time it's started.

 

Once EV Later ("charge sustain mode") has charged the battery up to the original state of charge when it was set, the engine turns off if it's not needed. That puts the car back in EV mode for short periods of time. It's perfectly normal, especially if you've regenerated a lot of surplus charge by braking or shifting into L down a hill.

 

Keeping the Fusion Energi in the mode selected is near impossible unless you live in a place with no hills and a constant moderate temperature. Mine frequently kicks on the engine while I'm in EV Now ("battery only mode") if it's 90+ degrees out with my A/C on and I'm going up a steep hill. If you don't want a car that does this, go buy a Chevrolet Volt :)

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Thanks for the explanations. It makes sense now about pressing the button 3x when the state of charge in EV Later is higher than when initially set. Otherwise, the car will basically drive in Auto until the initial threshold of EV Later is met. It seems if EV Later is set, the car should continue refilling the HVB without re-setting the threshold with the 3x press. When full, it should then switch to Auto - saving the entire HVB for later use.

 

As far as driving down short steep hills in Low and Hill Assist mode for long down grades - we know the battery is being replenished because of the up-arrow above the battery symbol in the center display? Is it more efficient to use these modes than feather the brake for the regenerative action? Do they both replenish the HVB at the same rate? How about using Low and feathering the brakes? Is the regenerative action doubled or is is the same?

 

I notice when in cruise control and the car needs to slow, the regenerative braking symbol shows on the center display whereas shifting into Low and Hill Assist shows the up-arrow above the battery. Are all modes turning the electric motor into a generator and returning the same amount of energy to the HVB?

Edited by Bud
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I'd love to know how to keep the car in the mode set when turned off so it doesn't default back to Auto every time it's started.

I'm not sure why yours switches back to Auto all the time - Mine will stay in the last mode selected. At least, I'm usually in EV Now and it's still in EV Now when I turn it back in.

If you are in EV Later when turning the car off it defaults back to EV Auto when starting again. If you are in EV Now or EV Auto it will stay in the mode where it was set when shut down.

 

Keeping the Fusion Energi in the mode selected is near impossible unless you live in a place with no hills and a constant moderate temperature. Mine frequently kicks on the engine while I'm in EV Now ("battery only mode") if it's 90+ degrees out with my A/C on and I'm going up a steep hill. If you don't want a car that does this, go buy a Chevrolet Volt :)

You may be experiencing high battery temperature which will cause the ICE to run.

 

Thanks for the explanations. It makes sense now about pressing the button 3x when the state of charge in EV Later is higher than when initially set. Otherwise, the car will basically drive in Auto until the initial threshold of EV Later is met. It seems if EV Later is set, the car should continue refilling the HVB without re-setting the threshold with the 3x press. When full, it should then switch to Auto - saving the entire HVB for later use.

The Energi does not have a mode where the HVB is charged via the gas engine. Some owners who want to do this use the EV Later 3x press method to slowly charge the HVB from gas.

 

As far as driving down short steep hills in Low and Hill Assist mode for long down grades - we know the battery is being replenished because of the up-arrow above the battery symbol in the center display? Is it more efficient to use these modes than feather the brake for the regenerative action? Do they both replenish the HVB at the same rate? How about using Low and feathering the brakes? Is the regenerative action doubled or is is the same?

 

I notice when in cruise control and the car needs to slow, the regenerative braking symbol shows on the center display whereas shifting into Low and Hill Assist shows the up-arrow above the battery. Are all modes turning the electric motor into a generator and returning the same amount of energy to the HVB?

Low will give you near maximum regen braking. The maximum amount of regen depends on the RPM of the traction motor. The traction motor RPM is a function of the wheel speed. The hill button of the shifter will maintain your speed when descending down out of the mountains. The car will use regen & ICE braking as needed to prevent the car from gaining speed. Whether you are in EV Now, Auto or Later the car will recharge the HVB the same.

 

When using Adaptive Cruise Control the spinning regen circle appears in conjunction with the brake lights being activated. Using L or the hill descent button do not activate the brake lights.

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I've noticed that a lot of these responses are for people who don't have a large comute.  In my case the car is driven at least 36 miles each way.... That is why it was purchased this car.

If i lived 10  miles from my work I wouldn't really care how efficent my car was... LoL. 

 

That said, I am trying to determine the best driving approach as it realates to EV vs ICE modes and when.  So we will try it in all different ways for a week each under our conditions and share our results! This first week of ownership we are going to do it in Auto Mode...

 

Cheers,
FV

Edited by frankiev
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  • 1 month later...

I've noticed that a lot of these responses are for people who don't have a large comute.  In my case the car is driven at least 36 miles each way.... That is why it was purchased this car.

If i lived 10  miles from my work I wouldn't really care how efficent my car was... LoL. 

 

That said, I am trying to determine the best driving approach as it realates to EV vs ICE modes and when.  So we will try it in all different ways for a week each under our conditions and share our results! This first week of ownership we are going to do it in Auto Mode...

 

Cheers,

FV

 

I generally drive a 150-mile commute (75 miles each way) twice a week. Don't ask why I'm crazy enough to drive this much; it's a long story. 

 

Here's my experience:

 

  • From my home, it's 7.6 miles to the freeway and I drive this in Auto mode.
  • When I get on the freeway, I switch to EV Later mode. I notice that my remaining battery percentage is generally about 70-75%, depending on how many red lights I hit.
  • I'm on the freeway for about 65 miles and use ECO Cruise Control; I generally drive between 67 and 69 mph - depending on the flow of traffic. 
  • There are lots of slight uphills/downhills on my freeway drive and as soon as I get on a stretch that's even slightly downhill I hit the cancel button on the cruise control and immediate hit the Set button; this usually puts the car into EV mode for those downhills (not to be confused with going into EV Later or Auto modes). I also watch this in Empower display mode.
  • If I hit significant traffic on the freeway I go into Auto mode; when traffic clears up and I can drive at freeway speeds I go back into EV Later mode.
  • When I exit, I drive on surface streets for the remaining 2.4 miles in Auto mode. This stretch has one long uphill climb so when my drive ends there's about 60% left on the HVB. I have no way to charge at my office. :(
  • I usually get between 52 and 57 MPG, based on the info displayed on my Trip Summary screen (when I shut off the car). My trip ends at usually exactly 75 miles, and the same Trip Summary screen also usually shows that at least half of those miles are "EV miles," due to the many level/downhill stretches on the freeway.
  • When I make the return trip in roughly the same traffic conditions, I get slightly lower MPG, about 49-53 MPG -- as I assume this is due to the (slightly) more uphill stretches on the freeway

Naturally, if/when I drive faster on this trip I definitely don't get the same MPG.

 

I've owned this car for 9 months now and despite a LOT of freeway driving, my average MPG on Fuelly is 61.1 MPG. I'm very happy with that.

 

Anyway, I just wanted to share this. As always, YMMV...  :)

Edited by BLFarnsworth
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