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Hybrid warranty


dlb92
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I plan on keeping the car a minimum of 8 years.  Does anyone know if there is a threshold the battery can fall below performance wise before they are obligated to replace it?

 

After 2.5 years I have lost 5-6 miles per charge and now I get 19-24 miles depending on how I drive.  The first year it was 24-30.

 

I'm just curious because if Florida is a CARB state I think that means the battery is warranted up to 150,000 miles.

 

Does anyone here know of a workaround in getting cheaper insurance/warranty plans in Florida since the state controls all the pricing and they are WAY over priced?  If I drive to another state can I buy a cheaper plan that will still be valid?

 

Edit:

I actually found Florida does NOT control warranty pricing and sellers are required to give a pamphlet stating such:

 

"Service Warranty rates are not filed with nor approved by the Office of Insurance Regulation (OIR). According to Section 634.414, Florida Statutes, each service agreement sold in this state must be accompanied by a written disclosure to the consumer that the rate charged for the service agreement is not subject to regulation by the Office of Insurance Regulation."

 

Thanks.

Edited by dlb92
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I plan on keeping the car a minimum of 8 years.  Does anyone know if there is a threshold the battery can fall below performance wise before they are obligated to replace it?

 

After 2.5 years I have lost 5-6 miles per charge and now I get 19-24 miles depending on how I drive.  The first year it was 24-30.

 

I'm just curious because if Florida is a CARB state I think that means the battery is warranted up to 150,000 miles.

 

Does anyone here know of a workaround in getting cheaper insurance/warranty plans in Florida since the state controls all the pricing and they are WAY over priced?  If I drive to another state can I buy a cheaper plan that will still be valid?

 

Edit:

I actually found Florida does NOT control warranty pricing and sellers are required to give a pamphlet stating such:

 

"Service Warranty rates are not filed with nor approved by the Office of Insurance Regulation (OIR). According to Section 634.414, Florida Statutes, each service agreement sold in this state must be accompanied by a written disclosure to the consumer that the rate charged for the service agreement is not subject to regulation by the Office of Insurance Regulation."

 

Thanks.

I think Florida regulates Internet sales of the extended warranties, so you can't buy them on line. But I suspect you can purchase them in another state. ESP warranties are through Ford, and will be honored at any dealer.

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OP

If you plan on keeping this car 8 year you better get a ESP plan.

 

My 13 with 16K took over $15,000 to get running again!!  The car only books out @ 20K.

This is the only car I have ever bought a plan for.

 

At 16,000 miles and less than 3 years issues are covered by the manufacturer's warranty. I would challenge anyone to name a car that has not had some cars that were problematic.

 

Having said that, this car has had more than its fair share of problems. On my 2013 car most of them were fairly minor. A washer added to keep the car from pinging as I drove off, replacing the window switches because they could not keep their programming (even after the software update), countless software updates (and there are still bugs in MFT), and a few recalls.

 

Fortunately I have not been hit with improperly wired cars (shorting issues), transmission failures, or main battery failure that have all been discussed. Having said that, I bought a car that can read the road and nudge the steering wheel when I am drifting, slow the car when I am about to run up on the car in front of me, tell me when a car is riding in my blind spot, do most of the work for me if I want to parallel park, and give me mountains of data on what is going on with the car as I drive. Any one of these systems fail and the warranty is paid for and that is before the labor to put it back in the car. 

 

We have long past the days of fuel/air/electricity to make a car go. Have been for a while. Not just this car, all of them. In the past I just use to sell a car before it turned 60K-75K on the ODO because I do not like messing with the maint years. Found out that this does not always work with my second BMW (did not keep the first one long enough to know if that would have been an issue -- it kept eating me up replacing tires), but had much better luck with the Acura I replaced it with and kept that car 7 years before buying this car.

 

I would also recommend getting an extended warranty, but not because I think that something is destined to fail but because there is so much tech on this car that the opportunity for failure is high.

 

There are not enough Fusion Energis on the road for Consumer Reports to even acknowledge their existence, but the hybrid and base model for 2013 is listed as a good bet (and 2014, 2015) -- not bad for a major redesign year.  

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I'm leasing my C-Max Energi, but at the 30K point, I intend to make a decision on purchase. If I decide to keep it, I will buy the 8 year, 150K PremiumCare ESP warranty. There is just too much stuff that can go wrong on these complex electronic / mechanical vehicles.

 

It has been debated at length in these forums. Some folks prefer to take their chances, some want the security. I realize that Ford has done the math and priced the ESP accordingly, but while I am paying off a car, I don't want to make repairs. Maintenance, certainly. But not repairs.

 

For reference, my car has had a single defect - a bad weld on the metal shielding of the battery at 1 month ownership. Fixed under warranty. But I'm still planning on buying the warranty.

 

BTW, the warranty is refundable for whatever mileage and time you don't use, if you decide you don't need it (or sell the car).

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Hey can you tell me more about this?  My windows, seats, ect don't keep their programming.

 

Do I need to take the car in and have them do software updates as well?

 

Did not have any issues with the seats keeping their programming, but my windows needed to be reset all the time.  Right before my car went out of warranty I just took it in and told them about it.  There was a software update, but it did not resolve the issue. Brought it back and they replaced the switch and have not had any issues since. 

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  • 1 month later...

I currently have a 2010 Fusion Hybrid (currently ordering a 2017 Fusion Energi Titanium). It is currently under both a Ford ESP Premium warranty and the factory 8 year 100000 mile Hybrid Component Warranty. 

 

The high voltage battery cable that goes from the HVB to the engine compartment failed and had to be replaced. According to Ford, it was not covered by either warranty because "It is a battery cable and is excluded." FYI it is a $1104.23 'WIRE - BATTERY" pn 14300 B. I guess not too many of those fail. Car had 733333 miles when it died.

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I currently have a 2010 Fusion Hybrid (currently ordering a 2017 Fusion Energi Titanium). It is currently under both a Ford ESP Premium warranty and the factory 8 year 100000 mile Hybrid Component Warranty. 

 

The high voltage battery cable that goes from the HVB to the engine compartment failed and had to be replaced. According to Ford, it was not covered by either warranty because "It is a battery cable and is excluded." FYI it is a $1104.23 'WIRE - BATTERY" pn 14300 B. I guess not too many of those fail. Car had 733333 miles when it died.

 

Were you spazzing on the 3 key or did you seriously have nearly 3/4 million miles on that car?  If so... I love seeing things like that. :)

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Spaz! With all those 3's I got carried away. there was a decimal point that I forgot to type. 73333.3 miles is more like it. As a computer person, at first I was just hoping that it was a software glitch due to all the 3's. No such luck. (I've seen things like that in real life when counters go from all 1's back to zero and blow up a program)

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