Driving tips

[Randymc2641]

Can anyone share driving tips for best mph besides the standard. I am assuming saving EV mode for slower speeds will result in higher mpg but then again higher mph would reduce mpg on the ice too. Any other tips would be great. Loving this car.

[murphy]

The best mpg is when the engine never runs.  My engine has run once since last February.

[bdginmo]

Allowing the ICE to run especially when the car isn't moving and especially for short trips is the enemy of MPGs. The warm up period for the ICE is really inefficient. I have honed in on a strategy that works well for me. My commute is 30-35 miles one way. I do not charge at work. This leaves me about 25 miles or so of pure EV range to divide among the 60-70 mile round trip. I use about 80% of the charge going to work. I don't switch to EV Later until I'm on the freeway. I save 20% so that when I leave work I have enough to avoid allowing the ICE to run until I get back on the freeway. Using this strategy I'm able to get to get 50-55 mpg in EV Later mode while on the freeway during the warm season (I see my mpg tank in the winter). This also works well in the summer when you want to keep the SoC low during the hot part of the day to extend HVB longevity.

 

1. Don't let the ICE start when you know you'll be stopping soon especially if the ICE hasn't warmed up yet.

 

2. Do switch to EV Later once you have entered the freeway and know you'll be going at least 45 mph for an extended period of time.

 

3. Do save enough charge in the HVB to repeat the process on your way back home.

 

4. Don't let the ICE run while in parking lots or garages (I have to go up 5 floors in a garage and allowing the ICE to run will tank my mpg).

 

5. Do stay within a few mph of the posted speed limit. It's unsafe to go much slower on the freeway, but it will significantly reduce mpg to go much faster. I try to stay as close as possible. Remember, the resistance force of air is proportional to the square of your vehicle's speed. So there is 36% more air resistance at 70 mph compared to 60 mph.

 

6. Do keep a lot of distance between you and the car in front of you. This will help keep your brake score above 90% and even help reduce your reliance on the brakes altogether.

 

7. Don't accelerate too quickly. Use a nice even and constant amount of power to accelerate. Try not to exceed more than 2 bars on the power meter.

 

8. Do avoid using the A/C and heater as much as possible. If you have a moon roof you can press the center button to tilt it forward and then crack the rear-right window. This will create a noticeable circulation behind your head. If it gets too hot then press the recirculate button when running the A/C. Use the seat warmers (if equipped) in the winter to keep your heater use to a minimum at least until you get on the freeway and the ICE has warmed up.

 

9. Don't tailgate large vehicles in the hopes of improving mpg. Not only is it unsafe, but you have to get close enough that sudden slow downs inevitably cause you to press the brake pedal hard enough to activate the friction brakes. I have personally seen little if any benefit from using this technique. I'm sure others are having better success with this though.

 

10. Do use a 240v charger. I calculate MPGe based on the amount of energy going through my meter; not by what the car or MFM reports. 240v charging is about 82% efficient whereas 120v charging is about 72% efficient.

 

11. Do use a 240v charger to charge more quickly. This allows you to get some SoC if you know you'll be needing to make a short trip for an errand or whatever. Short trips with the ICE will kill your mpgs. This whole ICE warmup inefficiency is apparently something Ford worked on for the 2017 models, but I suspect it's still a real drag.

Edited September 3, 2016 at 01:46 AM by bdginmo

[Doc Rock]

bdginmo,

 

I agree with almost all of your points. A couple of my observations about increasing economy:

 

1) I coast a lot, especially on lightly traveled neighborhood streets, and particularly when it is a downhill grade (however slight). Of course, I don't do this when there are cars directly behind me;

 

2) Gentle pressure on the brakes yields very high brake scores. I have taken to braking earlier (and gentler) when approaching a stop sign or a traffic light. I also find that letting up on the brake just before coming to a complete stop, and then pressing the brake yields brake scores reliably at or near 100%;

 

3) I was concerned about using an existing 120V garage outlet for charging as we have a refrigerator on the same circuit. However, the circuit breaker has never tripped;

 

4) I don't dispute that a 240V charger is 10% more efficient than a 120V charger. However, I expect my total kWh demand for charging (based on the amount of in-town driving I do) will only be about 2,000 kWh a year. Saving 10% (200 kWh) will save me about $24 a year. Compared to the cost of a 240V charger and installation of a 240V line in my garage (guessing at least $1,000 for both), $24 is paltry. Using the existing 120V outlet in my garage, I can fully charge from 0% to 100% in a little less than 6 hours. That's not a problem for me as charging overnight is just fine. And, we have two other cars should the need for a short trip arise while the Energi is charging;

 

5) I am having to mentally adjust to driving like a little old lady when piloting the Energi. When the need arises, I go for a spin my Mustang GT convertible to clear the cobwebs!

[JATR4]

 

 

"...2) Gentle pressure on the brakes yields very high brake scores. I have taken to braking earlier (and gentler) when approaching a stop sign or a traffic light. I also find that letting up on the brake just before coming to a complete stop, and then pressing the brake yields brake scores reliably at or near 100%..."

 

 

Try driving in LOW.  You can avoid much braking and regen is great.

[bdginmo]

Doc Rock, you are right, a 240v charger will never pay for itself. It cost me right at $1000 for the subpanel and a Clipper Creek EVSE.