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Guest Message by DevFuse

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12 Volt battery just died on my 2017 Energi Platinum.


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58 replies to this topic

#41 OFFLINE   Sandroad

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Posted 09 March 2018 - 12:36 PM

In my 2013 the only important loss is the engine has to relearn its operating parameters.  That is automatic, takes about 25 miles of engine use.  Some of your personalized options may need to be put back to the way that you want them.

 

 

Thanks. That's what I figured. I'm considering replacing the 12V battery proactively with the Odyssey AGM that fits. I don't mind working hot with a second battery hooked up under the hood either. I just have to decide if it's worth $230. 










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#42 OFFLINE   tonyjr428

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Posted 03 April 2018 - 09:24 PM

You have a 2017 FFE and the 12V battery was already dead? Yikes, I just bought a 2018 FFE Titanium 04/3 and hope I don’t run to sll these batteries problems.

#43 OFFLINE   murphy

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Posted 04 April 2018 - 01:32 AM

You have a 2017 FFE and the 12V battery was already dead? Yikes, I just bought a 2018 FFE Titanium 04/3 and hope I don’t run to sll these batteries problems.

If you drive the car every day you should not have a problem.  If you let the car sit for a couple of weeks without being driven you will have a problem.  There are computers in the car that are never turned off that will eventually discharge the battery.  The only way to completely turn the car off is to disconnect the 12 volt battery.

 

My car doesn't get driven much.  I keep it alive by connecting a battery charger to the terminals under the hood.


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#44 OFFLINE   jj2me

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Posted 04 April 2018 - 04:35 AM

I have a two-week trip coming up. I was thinking of asking my neighbor to remote start it a couple of times. My hopeful thinking is that the car's smarts will charge the 12V if it finds it to be low. Does that sound likely?

#45 OFFLINE   murphy

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Posted 04 April 2018 - 06:14 AM

I have a two-week trip coming up. I was thinking of asking my neighbor to remote start it a couple of times. My hopeful thinking is that the car's smarts will charge the 12V if it finds it to be low. Does that sound likely?

I'm not sure if that will be enough.

 

The remote start system will not work if:
• the ignition is on
• the alarm system triggered
• you disable the feature
• the hood is open
• the transmission is not in P
• the vehicle battery voltage is too low
• the service engine soon light is on.

The parking lamps will remain on and the engine will run for 5, 10, or 15 minutes, depending on the setting.

My recollection is that remote start can only be used twice within a one hour period.


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#46 OFFLINE   Timewellspent

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Posted 04 April 2018 - 06:37 AM

I had a trip that was 10 days.  I just left my car plugged into the EVSE and then logged into the website a couple times while on my trip and selected update.  This will wake the car up and then charge the 12v if it is low (so I was told).  I didn't have any issues when I returned. 


409947.png


#47 OFFLINE   jj2me

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Posted 04 April 2018 - 07:29 AM

I had a trip that was 10 days.  I just left my car plugged into the EVSE and then logged into the website a couple times while on my trip and selected update.  This will wake the car up and then charge the 12v if it is low (so I was told).  I didn't have any issues when I returned. 

 

I should have stated this is an outdoor car  Besides my old garage being detached with no electricity, it's too small to fit the Fusion.



#48 OFFLINE   jj2me

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Posted 15 April 2018 - 08:02 AM

If you drive the car every day you should not have a problem.  If you let the car sit for a couple of weeks without being driven you will have a problem.  There are computers in the car that are never turned off that will eventually discharge the battery.  The only way to completely turn the car off is to disconnect the 12 volt battery.

 

I'll be leaving my car outside for 18 days from the last full charge of the 12V battery. I really don't want to incur any damage to my 6-month old 12V battery.
 
The manual says:
"If storing your vehicle for more than 30 days without recharging the battery, we recommend that you disconnect the battery cables to maintain battery charge for quick starting.
Note: It is necessary to reset memory features if you disconnect the battery cables."

 

 

If I disconnect the battery cables, I'm wondering:
1. Is Ford's "30 days" too long, such that my 12V battery will flake and be damaged?  It seems Ford under-engineered the 12V battery management, so I'm not sure I should trust their estimate here.  Any opinions of whether I should instead disconnect the battery cables for the 18-day duration?
2. Will the memory features that are reset include the odometers/trip meters?
3. Do I need to disconnect both cables like they say?
4. The manual states further:
"Disconnect the 12V battery. If your 12V battery is located in the luggage compartment, do not fully shut the luggage compartment after disconnecting the 12V battery. Only leave the luggage compartment open if your vehicle is stored in a locked location."

 

 

What is this about, and should I open the trunk pass-through to achieve some additional venting?  Or even slightly crack open a window too?

Edited by jj2me, 15 April 2018 - 08:03 AM.


#49 OFFLINE   murphy

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Posted 15 April 2018 - 12:18 PM

In my experience the battery will not last for a week let alone 30 days.

Just disconnect the negative lead from the battery, the one toward the back of the car.  The battery is vented underneath the car and a disconnected battery is not going to be releasing hydrogen.  That only happens when the battery is being charged.  There is no reason to leave the trunk open.

 

The odometer is required by law to not be able to be reset.  The odometer and trip meters will not be reset.  The engine will lose its learned parameters.  It will relearn them in 25 miles of driving just like it did when the car was new.  There may be a few personal settings that may need to be reset.  My 2013 can display mpg or mpge.  I always have to switch back to mpge when the battery gets disconnected by service.


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#50 OFFLINE   Timewellspent

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Posted 15 April 2018 - 12:29 PM

If you close the trunk, you can't open it without power which is why it was suggested to leave open I assume.


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409947.png


#51 OFFLINE   jj2me

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Posted 15 April 2018 - 12:55 PM

Great stuff, thanks to both of you.

 

So I guess I'll need to first tie a rope to the emergency trunk release in the trunk, and pass it through to the passenger compartment through the pass-through.  I so wish car manufacturers had kept a few mechanical cable releases (emergency brake and now this).



#52 OFFLINE   murphy

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Posted 15 April 2018 - 02:01 PM

Great stuff, thanks to both of you.

 

So I guess I'll need to first tie a rope to the emergency trunk release in the trunk, and pass it through to the passenger compartment through the pass-through.  I so wish car manufacturers had kept a few mechanical cable releases (emergency brake and now this).

Sorry, I forgot about that.  My car has a rope in place.  However you could connect 12 volts to the jump terminals under the hood to get the power to open the trunk.


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#53 OFFLINE   jj2me

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Posted 15 April 2018 - 03:43 PM

Sorry, I forgot about that.  My car has a rope in place.  However you could connect 12 volts to the jump terminals under the hood to get the power to open the trunk.

 

Thanks much again.  I just assumed that there might be some incomplete circuit where if the battery wasn't connected then a jump from the under-hood terminals wouldn't work.  That's the way I'd like to do it, with the rope as a backup.  It's more certain, in case the rope were to slip somehow.

 

What a helpful forum this is.


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#54 OFFLINE   murphy

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Posted 16 April 2018 - 01:39 AM

This is why it is best to not disconnect the positive cable from the battery.  If it was disconnected it would have to be wrapped with insulation so there was no possibility that it could come in contact with the frame of the car.  The negative cable is already connected to the frame of the car so there is no risk with it.


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#55 OFFLINE   4cylinder

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Posted 16 April 2018 - 05:09 AM

FWIW I took a 2-week trip in the second half of December 2017, leaving the car in my unheated garage during an extreme Michigan winter. While the car was plugged in, the GFCI outlet in my garage got tripped by the home heater working extra hard, so the car never actually charged much when I was away. I did not hook up any smart battery maintainer like murphy does, though I plan to buy one eventually. 

 

The car still started when I got back. To be safe, I left it running for about 15 minutes with the charger plugged in, before actually driving 20 minutes to work. I suspect that if I'd parked the car outdoors I wouldn't have been so lucky. 

 

I keep a portable battery jumper in the glove compartment so I don't have to worry about being locked out of the trunk, and I also have larger jumper cables stored in my garage.

 

I would recommend not leaving the car in airport parking. Leave it in the garage or at a friend's house - anywhere where you have easy access to necessary tools just in case the 12V dies, just to have some peace of mind. I do have to pay about $60 each way to use Lyft to reach the airport, but it's worth it. 


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#56 OFFLINE   jj2me

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Posted 16 April 2018 - 12:51 PM

Just attached a rope to the emergency trunk release and placed the other end in the passenger compartment, as a backup.  Took off the negative battery cable, then tested the underhood battery boost, and yes, just as you, murphy, stated, it gives me juice allowing me to open the trunk with the trunk release button at the back of the car.  So two ways to open the trunk.

 

Thanks again.

 

 

(Re the negative battery cable in the 2017:  Although there's a fat negative post like in cars since the '40s, the thick terminal that's on the post doesn't need to come off.  The battery cable comes off with a 13mm nut, and it looks like a motorcycle battery cable, just a ring terminal that goes over the 13mm bolt.)


Edited by jj2me, 16 April 2018 - 12:52 PM.


#57 OFFLINE   jjr

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Posted 27 April 2018 - 06:57 PM

This is a great thread.  Just bought my 2014 FFE this week and already had the joy of the battery being dead at the end of the day the second day in.  Needless to say, that wasn't exactly a confidence booster. 

 

The previous (first) owner did not appear to take great care of this car nor take any effort to learn to drive it efficiently.  I was worried the dead battery was due to their negligence but after reading through this thread I am learning many useful facts about that 12v battery. 

Thanks for all the information!



#58 OFFLINE   murphy

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Posted 28 April 2018 - 01:54 AM

If you have a short commute the car may not be on long enough to fully charge the 12 volt battery.  When the HVB finishes charging you will get a notice that charging is complete.  That is misleading because that is when the charging of the 12 volt battery starts.  You need to wait until the EVSE charging indicator goes off before disconnecting it from the car.


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#59 OFFLINE   jjr

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Posted 19 May 2018 - 08:07 AM

murphy -
Thanks for the tip on the small, 12V battery stored in the glove box.  It has already come in handy and was cheaper (and smaller) than a jump box!  Taking the car in on Monday to get them to check for out of date software. 










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