wazer Posted June 21, 2014 at 08:20 PM Report Share Posted June 21, 2014 at 08:20 PM When a remote start is initiated, does it respect the EV mode that was last set when the vehicle was turned off? For instance, if it was in EV AUTO/NOW prior to shut down with available HVB charge, and remote start was initiated, would it only use HVB for climate power? and if EV Later was selected and there was still a HVB charge, would it maintain that level of charge and run the ICE? Or does one or the other always happen regardless of setting and/or HVB charge level? Does having it plugged in or not have any effect on the above? I'm also curious to know if the system is keeping track of electric/gas consumption during remote start. Is this reflected in the MPG/MPGe shown on the display once starting with the ignition? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwheetley Posted July 8, 2014 at 07:05 PM Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 at 07:05 PM I'm pretty sure the MPG / MPGe readings reflect the remote start energy usage. I do know that if it's plugged in and you remote start, it uses the electricity from the charger to power the environmental system. As far as everything else, sounds like you may need to set up some experiments and try it. I have no idea on those questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryh Posted July 8, 2014 at 10:32 PM Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 at 10:32 PM Yes--if you leave it in EV Now mode it will use that mode for the remote start, unless the HVB is depleted. When remote starting, it does not track your fuel consumption. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveEnergi Posted July 9, 2014 at 11:28 AM Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 at 11:28 AM I'm pretty sure the MPG / MPGe readings reflect the remote start energy usage. I do know that if it's plugged in and you remote start, it uses the electricity from the charger to power the environmental system. As far as everything else, sounds like you may need to set up some experiments and try it. I have no idea on those questions. If the vehicle is plugged in and you remote start, it will use the electricity from the grid to heat/cool the cabin, the same as the "go times" do. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wazer Posted July 13, 2014 at 12:14 PM Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 at 12:14 PM Thanks for the info. And the 120v charger can't supply enough power for HVAC during remote start, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryh Posted July 13, 2014 at 12:28 PM Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 at 12:28 PM (edited) The 120 V charger supplies the car with about 1.06 kW of power. The heater and AC can initially consume up to 5 kW of power. During remote start, most likely the AC and the heater will consume at least 2 kW of power, so the 120 V charger cannot supply sufficient power to prevent draining the HVB. You need a 240 V charger. It can supply the car with 3 kW of power. Edited July 13, 2014 at 12:28 PM by larryh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russael Posted July 13, 2014 at 01:37 PM Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 at 01:37 PM If the vehicle is plugged in and you remote start, it will use the electricity from the grid to heat/cool the cabin, the same as the "go times" do. SteveNot exactly - Go times use energy solely from the wall. Remote starting will use energy from all available sources (wall/battery/ice) to preheat or cool your vehicle as fast as possible (usually within 10 minutes). Even a 240V charger can't keep up with a remote start in the middle of winter without draining some of the battery too. As Larry mentioned, both the heater and A/C units can independently use greater than 5kw of power, and the remote start allows the climate system to use maximum power. In the dead of winter even with my car left in EV Now mode, when I remote started my car, several times the ICE kicked on as well. Go times are limited to the wall supply. You'll find a lot of complaints of poor Go Time performance from those who use only the 120V charger. The 240V supply gives significantly better performance, but even that can't get the car very warm in 0 degree weather. The Focus Electric, since it has a 6.6kw onboard charger, offers top tier Go Time/Remote Start performance. The charger is bigger than the draw of the climate system, so that shouldn't use any battery using either method of preconditioning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wazer Posted July 13, 2014 at 01:43 PM Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 at 01:43 PM My only option is to use the 120v charger in my apartment garage. The garage door opener is also plugged into the same outlet. I know the charger should be on its own circuit, but I have no choice. I tried charging it using the outlet on my test drive successfully, but I didn't try opening/closing the door during charging to see if both could be handled at the same time. Should I be concerned about tripping the breaker? There are about 12 garages with their own opener in this free standing structure. Maybe it was designed to handle the load from multiple openers being used at once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug0716 Posted July 13, 2014 at 02:16 PM Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 at 02:16 PM My only option is to use the 120v charger in my apartment garage. The garage door opener is also plugged into the same outlet. I know the charger should be on its own circuit, but I have no choice. I tried charging it using the outlet on my test drive successfully, but I didn't try opening/closing the door during charging to see if both could be handled at the same time. Should I be concerned about tripping the breaker? There are about 12 garages with their own opener in this free standing structure. Maybe it was designed to handle the load from multiple openers being used at once.According to other threads I've read the 120V charger draws about 12amps. Depending on the garage door opener I would expect 5-8A which means you're at the limit of a 20A circuit, and very few circuits are below 20A. I think your bigger problem might be the plug, it is probably only rated at 15A. Since the garage door opener runs for so little time, it probably wouldn't be a problem, but I still wouldn't feel comfortable with it personally. See this picture to learn how to tell the difference:http://kyledesigns.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/duplex_15amp_20amp.jpg (Note: A 15A plug's max current is based on how it is wired. If it is wired with one 120V circuit, as most are then the whole plug is maxed at 15A. If it is wired as two poles off a 240V circuit, which is much more expensive and I can almost guarantee is now how yours is wired, then it can handle 15A at each plug for 30A total.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wazer Posted July 13, 2014 at 03:17 PM Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 at 03:17 PM Just checked with my kill-a-watt meter and the opener draws 4.5 amps while opening. I could take out the 60w bulb and get that down to 4 amps. It is a 15A receptacle, but I'm comfortable with that since the opener only runs for ~15 seconds. Now I just need to get my Energi! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comike Posted August 4, 2014 at 10:53 PM Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 at 10:53 PM If the vehicle is plugged in and you remote start, it will use the electricity from the grid to heat/cool the cabin, the same as the "go times" do. SteveI thought there was a difference between a "go time" startup and a remote start from the keyfob or MyFord Mobile. The other day, my car was plugged in to my 240v Level 2 EVSE and I did a remote start. The car had been in EV Mode prior. I heard the AC compressor kick in, but the charging ring didn't illuminate. I had my doubts as to whether it was using external power for the climate control. Is there any way to confirm whether it was drawing climate control power from the EVSE or from the battery? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryh Posted August 4, 2014 at 11:07 PM Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 at 11:07 PM (edited) If you remote start the car, it will draw power from the charger if plugged in. The two main differences between preconditioning and remote start are the following: 1. The ICE may start when remote starting the car. With preconditioning, the ICE will not start.2. With preconditioning, the HVB will be fully charged at the designated GO time. With remote start, the HVB may not be at 100% when you leave. The car will not begin charging the HVB with remote start until the true SOC falls below 98%. The true SOC is different from what is displayed in the car. The car displays 100% SOC until the true SOC falls below 95.5%. You won't see the charging ring flash when the true SOC is above 95.5%. Edited August 4, 2014 at 11:08 PM by larryh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveEnergi Posted August 5, 2014 at 11:18 AM Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 at 11:18 AM Unless you ran a test, according to the manual the vehicle ICE will not start if the car is plugged in. You get warning messages on the console when attempting to start the vehicle when it is plugged in. I imagine this is to prevent C02 poisoning in garages. I would hope the systems functions the same, using the safety features, when using the remote control on a vehicle which is plugged in. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russael Posted August 5, 2014 at 12:04 PM Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 at 12:04 PM That is correct - the vehicle will NOT start if you climb in and turn the key or press the start button while plugged in. Warning messages pop up and it won't move, because the system expects that you're going to drive it. However, remote starting is a different animal. If the car is in a temperature extreme (for me, abysmally cold), the car can and has started the ICE while plugged in, regardless of what mode I last left the car in (I always drive in EV Now mode). Both Larry and I have observed that and we both have 240V charging stations. We've seen the extreme low temp, but don't know if anyone who remote started and had that happen in high temp. The only way around getting your car's interior to temp with 0 risk of starting the ICE is the usage of a Go Time. That uses power solely from the wall for climate, but it needs a 240V station to be effective. Remote start uses power from all available sources all at once (wall, battery, ICE) to get your car's interior to your set temperature as fast as possible (usually within 10 minutes). Of course, I'm repeating what Larry already said. For NJMIKE, I don't recall seeing my charging ring illuminate either, but I do see the charging indicator on my charging station turn on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryh Posted August 5, 2014 at 12:11 PM Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 at 12:11 PM Unless you ran a test, according to the manual the vehicle ICE will not start if the car is plugged in. You get warning messages on the console when attempting to start the vehicle when it is plugged in. I imagine this is to prevent C02 poisoning in garages. I would hope the systems functions the same, using the safety features, when using the remote control on a vehicle which is plugged in. SteveThe ICE will start when the car is plugged in and the car is running. I have had that happen many times. If the HVB is low and you run the heater, the 120 V charger can't keep up. The ICE will start to charge the HVB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveEnergi Posted August 5, 2014 at 01:10 PM Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 at 01:10 PM ok, so then the warning message prevents you from driving away with the car plugged in, and not for safety. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryh Posted August 5, 2014 at 08:30 PM Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 at 08:30 PM You will not be able to drive away with the car plugged in. The steering wheel and shift lever will both be locked. However, you could bypass that by plugging the car in while the car is running and the shift lever is not in park, but I would advise against doing that. If you plug the car in while the car is running and the shift is in park, it will begin charging the car and the shift lever will be locked. However, the steering wheel will not be locked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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