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12 Volt battery just died on my 2017 Energi Platinum.


Bigsam411
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My dealer is electric certified and I finally got them to stop telling me I need an oil change every 3000 miles.

 

I feel the problem is that there just are not enough of these vehicles for the dealerships to invest the time to become knowledgeable on how these vehicles really work. I fear that the electric certified was a one time thing that included some infrastructure requirements 4 years ago.

 

I wonder if there is any ongoing requirements to maintain this certification. I fear there is not. It is always an adventure at the dealership when I have a problem that is specific to this powertrain.  I assume it is better in California where more of these cars have been sold, but locally it is a struggle. 

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I feel the problem is that there just are not enough of these vehicles for the dealerships to invest the time to become knowledgeable on how these vehicles really work. I fear that the electric certified was a one time thing that included some infrastructure requirements 4 years ago.

 

I wonder if there is any ongoing requirements to maintain this certification. I fear there is not. It is always an adventure at the dealership when I have a problem that is specific to this powertrain. I assume it is better in California where more of these cars have been sold, but locally it is a struggle.

What does mean to be electric certified ad a dealer?

 

For my dealer's service center and many, I know that each individual tech and supervisor is not trained in electric cars unless they as an individual request the training.

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Check out my full coverage from my local Ford EV Certified dealership visit today concerning the "System Off to Save Battery" issue over on the FFH forum here!

 

I cover what "EV certification" means and how important it is to make sure your Energi is only serviced by an EV certified Ford mechanic (er.. "technician") for many problems you might run into.

Edited by ClaveMan
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What does mean to be electric certified ad a dealer?

 

For my dealer's service center and many, I know that each individual tech and supervisor is not trained in electric cars unless they as an individual request the training.

 

 

What's involved in the certification process? Here are the basics listed by Ford: "Certification means the dealerships have met the automaker’s guidelines for dealers selling electric vehicles—including installation of at least two on-site charging stations (one in the service area and the other located in the customer area) and participation in highly specialized training in the field of electric vehicles."

In addition, a minimum of one Focus Electric and one C-Max Energi must be on site at all times. EV Certified dealers are the only Ford dealerships allowed to sell plug-in vehicles.

Ford also announced that it expects its three plug-in vehicles—the Focus Electric, C-Max Energi and Fusion Energi—will become available in all 50 states within the next few months.

Ford claims the increase in EV Certified dealers is a result of "increased demand for the company’s electrified vehicles."

 

http://www.plugincars.com/ford-ev-certified-dealers-hit-900-spring-126388.html

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To be Ev certified means nothing. It is marketing BS.

 

None of the 8 or so Ev certified dealerships I've tried for service here in Canada meet any/most of those requirements. None ever have a focus electric or cmax energi ever in stock never mind at all times. One of the eight had a charger in the parking lot. Another couldn't work on my vehicle because they iced their own service bay charger with a vehicle that could not be moved for the long term. None have any clue how the vehicle works or the differences between it and other fusions. I have to argue with them over the correct tire size and explain what go times are and how they work. Every time. It's a joke.

 

My favourite was the time my go times were using tomorrow's schedule instead of today's. I said this to the service advisor and dropped the vehicle off. The next day I was told to pick it up because they could find no problem. That Friday afternoon I had to go back into the dealer and show them. The advisor and tech then talked about how they were going to relay this to the Ford hot line. They eventually decided on "the go times are using tomorrow's schedule instead of today's." I then said that is exactly what I said a week ago but I am still in here wasting my Friday afternoon just so you can say exactly what I said to someone who actually has a clue (the hot line) and then I get to waste another day bringing in the vehicle again so you can actually do something more than nothing.

Edited by openair
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My dealer installed the outside EVSE but always parked cars waiting for service in front of it making its use a hassle.  Then they built a building extension where the EVSE was located.  I have not found one since that happened.

 

My dealer also almost always have the chargers blocked with non-EVs. It is hit or miss on if they will move them to charge my car when I service it there. 

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Every job in retail I ever had - first day the manager said "Customer comes first.Park in farthest parking space away you can find, preferably where they won't even see your vehicle."World has gone to h@ll with these whippersnapper Millenials.

TIL I should move to Mississippi where car dealers are managed by ppl less than 40. Here being 50+ with mostly grey hair is part of the job description and the attitude is no better then what you blame Millenials for.

Edited by openair
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My 12 volt battery died over the weekend.  Got it started and drove 50 miles on Mon.  Dead again Tues morning.  Definitely needed a new 12 volt battery.

 

This was for a 2013 FFE.  Other years may have different part numbers.

 

Crescent Ford in High Point, NC did the work.  I checked with Murphy and doing the installation myself seemed counterproductive.  The price for the new battery was $119.95 (with $10 coupon) plus $33 labor for installation.  Total $165.04.

 

The old battery number was BXT-99R-390 (390 CCA) with a build date of 05/23/13 (the serial number for the battery).  The new battery part number is BXT-99RT4-A (470 CCA) with a build date of 01/27/17.

 

Battery (Motorcraft MAX) has free replacement for 36 months (stamped on the battery) and then prorated after that (36-100 months).

 

Also needed the modem replaced.  They had to acess the modem and order the proper part.  Looking forward to accessing the vehicle after replacement.

Edited by JATR4
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  • 10 months later...

If I replace the 12V battery and disconnect the leads, what will need to be reset in the car after connecting the new battery? Car is a '17 FFE Titanium. 

In my 2013 the only important loss is the engine has to relearn its operating parameters.  That is automatic, takes about 25 miles of engine use.  Some of your personalized options may need to be put back to the way that you want them.

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In my 2013 the only important loss is the engine has to relearn its operating parameters.  That is automatic, takes about 25 miles of engine use.  Some of your personalized options may need to be put back to the way that you want them.

 

 

Thanks. That's what I figured. I'm considering replacing the 12V battery proactively with the Odyssey AGM that fits. I don't mind working hot with a second battery hooked up under the hood either. I just have to decide if it's worth $230. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

You have a 2017 FFE and the 12V battery was already dead? Yikes, I just bought a 2018 FFE Titanium 04/3 and hope I don’t run to sll these batteries problems.

If you drive the car every day you should not have a problem.  If you let the car sit for a couple of weeks without being driven you will have a problem.  There are computers in the car that are never turned off that will eventually discharge the battery.  The only way to completely turn the car off is to disconnect the 12 volt battery.

 

My car doesn't get driven much.  I keep it alive by connecting a battery charger to the terminals under the hood.

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I have a two-week trip coming up. I was thinking of asking my neighbor to remote start it a couple of times. My hopeful thinking is that the car's smarts will charge the 12V if it finds it to be low. Does that sound likely?

I'm not sure if that will be enough.

 

The remote start system will not work if:

• the ignition is on

• the alarm system triggered

• you disable the feature

• the hood is open

• the transmission is not in P

• the vehicle battery voltage is too low

• the service engine soon light is on.

 

The parking lamps will remain on and the engine will run for 5, 10, or 15 minutes, depending on the setting.

 

My recollection is that remote start can only be used twice within a one hour period.

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I had a trip that was 10 days.  I just left my car plugged into the EVSE and then logged into the website a couple times while on my trip and selected update.  This will wake the car up and then charge the 12v if it is low (so I was told).  I didn't have any issues when I returned. 

 

I should have stated this is an outdoor car  Besides my old garage being detached with no electricity, it's too small to fit the Fusion.

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  • 2 weeks later...

If you drive the car every day you should not have a problem.  If you let the car sit for a couple of weeks without being driven you will have a problem.  There are computers in the car that are never turned off that will eventually discharge the battery.  The only way to completely turn the car off is to disconnect the 12 volt battery.

 

I'll be leaving my car outside for 18 days from the last full charge of the 12V battery. I really don't want to incur any damage to my 6-month old 12V battery.
 
The manual says:
"If storing your vehicle for more than 30 days without recharging the battery, we recommend that you disconnect the battery cables to maintain battery charge for quick starting.
Note: It is necessary to reset memory features if you disconnect the battery cables."

 

 

If I disconnect the battery cables, I'm wondering:
1. Is Ford's "30 days" too long, such that my 12V battery will flake and be damaged?  It seems Ford under-engineered the 12V battery management, so I'm not sure I should trust their estimate here.  Any opinions of whether I should instead disconnect the battery cables for the 18-day duration?
2. Will the memory features that are reset include the odometers/trip meters?
3. Do I need to disconnect both cables like they say?
4. The manual states further:
"Disconnect the 12V battery. If your 12V battery is located in the luggage compartment, do not fully shut the luggage compartment after disconnecting the 12V battery. Only leave the luggage compartment open if your vehicle is stored in a locked location."

 

 

What is this about, and should I open the trunk pass-through to achieve some additional venting?  Or even slightly crack open a window too?
Edited by jj2me
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In my experience the battery will not last for a week let alone 30 days.

Just disconnect the negative lead from the battery, the one toward the back of the car.  The battery is vented underneath the car and a disconnected battery is not going to be releasing hydrogen.  That only happens when the battery is being charged.  There is no reason to leave the trunk open.

 

The odometer is required by law to not be able to be reset.  The odometer and trip meters will not be reset.  The engine will lose its learned parameters.  It will relearn them in 25 miles of driving just like it did when the car was new.  There may be a few personal settings that may need to be reset.  My 2013 can display mpg or mpge.  I always have to switch back to mpge when the battery gets disconnected by service.

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