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Now I just need to find a small box or solid cover to put the key in so the buttons don't get pressed in my pocket... That was a terrible design. It happened to me maybe once every couple years with the last key remote I had...

There are a couple on ebay. Two I like were one where the FOB rotates out of a leather cover and a silicon one that covers everything.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2m2-Leather-Key-Fob-Holder-For-2013-Ford-Mondeo-FOCUS-fiestai-Max-L03lm-ckr-f1/321058540319?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D8398052552725877323%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D321058540319%26

Edited by shaggy314
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I am using a hearing-aid case that just barely holds my Fusion fob, the fob for my wife's Prius and the ChargePoint card. It zips open, but I almost never open it -- both cars can see the fob through the case, and for ChargePoint I just hold the case up to the reader. Every once in a while I zip open the case to open the windows and moonroof to cool off the car before getting in.

 

I never have a problem with accidental button pushes.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Test drove an Energi Titanium this evening and did not have the "no key detected" problem. After the papers were signed, it was prepped, and we walked thru the orientation with it being charged, I attempted to back out and drive away. Had the "nkd" error twice before getting off the lot. Was able to start it after a minute, turned around and let the sales guy know, then asked him to show me where in the console to place the fob to override the problem. Wife had already left with the other fob. Car had only 16 miles on it. Temp had dropped to the low 90s by then. If I wasn't aware this was a known problem from these forums I would have been tempted to hand him back the fob and the car and tear up the sale.

 

Going back to the dealer for the tint and splash guards next week so I'll ask for the 5-32 TSB fix to hopefully resolve this.

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If the 12 volt battery is already low on charge and a global open is done that is 5 motors running at the same time.  That load may trigger the car's battery protection mode due to low voltage.  When the load is removed the battery voltage will recover after a few seconds.  My 12 volt battery is always low because for the most part I only do short trips.  The longest regular trip is 11 miles.  I quite often find my 12 volt battery with less than 50% charge.  Measuring the battery voltage drop, while global open is in progress, is the next test I am going to run.

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Have not experienced the NKD problem since my initial departure attempt from the dealer. Went back to the dealer today for the tint and splash guards and asked for the 5-32 TSB RTM update. After checking, they said it already had the latest version 85.3 RTM update.

 

My theory on my NKD occurrence is it might have been due to a low battery condition. When I test drove it, it only had 13 miles on it and about 2 miles of charge left so it probably had a few short test drives under its belt and a lot of sitting with the AC on and people checking out the MFT and other electronic toys. The 12V was probably low as it didn't get much chance to recharge.

 

I can see how the global open could trigger this with a depleted 12V and a big current draw from the undersized battery (only 390CCA?). I can't test the windows for 3-5 days since they were just tinted. Wonder if they will beef up the 12V battery in the 2014s.

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Why do you guys think the 12V can be depleted?  I have been running my car for a week without being plugged in and have had no issues like this.  On the other hand, I don't use the "all windows down" trick.  My guess is that there is an issue with the programming.

 

The Energi can function forever without being plugged in.

 

R

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Because I don't drive my car for days at a time and there is a significant load on the 12 volt battery that is always there.  Think alarm system, data radio for myfordmobile, and who knows what else always has power.  When the charge level gets low enough the car goes into battery preservation mode.

It only takes a couple of days without using the car for the 12 volt battery to drop to the 50% charge level.

 

If the car is driven at least 25 miles every day there is not a problem.  That is sufficient to keep the 12 volt battery charged.

 

A run to the supermarket that is 2.6 miles away is not going to keep the 12 volt battery charged.

 

Keeping the car plugged in is the only way to keep the 12 volt battery charged in a days between drives situation.

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The 12v battery is always being charged, as I understand it. It's charged from the big battery, as there is no alternator.

 

It's only being charged when the car is in run mode.  Sitting in the garage with the car turned off and not connected to the external charger it is being discharged continuously by the always on electronics.  IMHO, as an electrical engineer (retired), the battery is too small for the application.  I wish I could find the specs for it because it also should be a deep discharge battery.  There is no need for a CCA rating for this battery.  What is needed is the Ampere-Hour rating but it's not on the battery.  It's a Ford proprietary battery.  It's not available from anyone but Ford.

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The reply I received from MyFord Mobile Support indicated that the 12 volt battery is charged when the car is plugged in, the charge mode is set to Value Charge, and the car is waiting to charge at the start of the high priority value charge window.

My car is not plugged in when the HVB doesn't need to be charged due to the high cost of electricity.  There is also no such thing as value charging where I live.  It's 16 cents per KWH 24/7/365 with the exception of June, July, August, and September when they give me a $20 per month rebate for allowing them to control my A/C compressor.  When they have a power emergency they cycle it on and off at 15 minute intervals.  There were no events in June so that's $20 free money for June.

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Note that chargers generally have Cold-Load Pickup.  If they are going to cycle your electricity at 15 minute intervals, the car cannot charge.  The charger will wait a random amount of time, from 2 to 20 minutes or so to begin charging after the power comes back on.

Edited by larryh
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Note that chargers generally have Cold-Load Pickup.  If they are going to cycle your electricity at 15 minute intervals, the car cannot charge.  The charger will wait a random amount of time, from 2 to 20 minutes or so to begin charging after the power comes back on.

They are not cycling my electricity.

The only thing being cycled is the A/C compressor for the house.  They control the on/off line to the compressor, that is driven by the thermostat, by radio control.

It's equivalent to changing the setting of the thermostat every 15 minutes.

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I'm sorry.  I didn't read your post carefully.  I just assumed they were cycling the power to the charger--I didn't realize it was your central A/C compressor.  My power company has the option of cycling the charger, supplying it with electricity only at night during off peak hours for a lower rate.

 

My power company also cycles my central A/C. They actually shut off the power to the compressor.  I get a $12 credit for the month.  Unfortunately, this is done during peak hours from 4 pm to 9 pm when it is most needed.  So if the house isn't cool by the time I get home, it won't get a chance to cool off until night.

Edited by larryh
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  • 4 months later...
  • 4 months later...

I had a similar issue today... Conveniently enough, it happened at the dealer when I was picking up my car after having the TSB applied for the P2183 code issue.  They handed me the keys, and as I walked up to the car, it wouldn't unlock with the fob.  Fearing a dead battery, I manually used the key to unlock the drivers door.  The touchscreen lit up so it didn't appear to be a battery issue.  When I placed the ignition to "run" the car alarm went off and the display said "No Key Found" (as per my settings, I got the MFM text telling me the alarm was active).  After a while, the horn turned off and the hazard lights kept blinking.  Since this was in the dealer's driveway, I just walked back to the service department.  They tried a few things (including attempting a jump in case it was a battery issue), to no avail.  Eventually, they pushed it back into a service bay and had to "reprogram the key" to get it to work.  Seems completely random, because I assume they moved the car once or twice after the other TSB was applied without any issues.

 

As soon as I got home, I tried my other key, and it is still working fine.  This has me a little concerned, because if it had happened anywhere other than the dealer would have been so much worse, because I don't routinely carry both keys with me.  I'm hoping it was a one time fluke.

 

Not sure if/how it's different that what others experienced in the past, but I have an SE, not the Titanium.  So I can't just place my fob in the backup slot, because the key needs to be in the ignition for the car to move.

 

GIven the TSB is from May 2013, and my car was built in August 2013, I'd hope that it doesn't need a software update.  I don't know if that's something that can be looked up by VIN, but I also hope the dealer would have checked while it was there.

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  • 2 months later...

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