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12 Volt battery just died on my 2017 Energi Platinum.


Bigsam411
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When the car is off the HVB is disconnected from the car by two contactors.  The 12 volt battery is needed to activate the contactors to connect the HVB to the car.  The HVB is needed to be online to start the engine.  The car does not have a starter motor.

 

Tesla uses the HVB to keep the 12 volt battery charged.  Four times a day it charges the 12 volt battery from 50% to 100%.  This is the source of vampire drain in a Tesla.  An Energi left sitting for a week would have a dead HVB in addition to a dead 12 volt battery if they had done this.  The current Tesla has a 100 kWh HVB as compared to the 7.6 kWh HVB in the 2017 Energi.

 

When my Energi will be sitting for a while, like a week, I connect a 12 volt battery charger to the battery jump terminals under the hood to keep the 12 volt battery charged.

 

There are many processors in the Energi that are never turned off.  That is the reason for the drain on the 12 volt battery.

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  • 2 months later...

I had battery drain problems when I first got my 2013 FFE Titanium. It was a wire bundle short in the back (I suspect the rubbing problem someone mentioned above). They replaced the battery once, before finding this problem. No problems really since then except when I parked at an airport for a week, unplugged, outside in the heat. Fortunately the parking lot could give me a jump.

 

Fast forward to last Monday. I was gone for 1 week, and had the car parked outside in the blazing heat in MD, unplugged in my driveway. When I got home, the battery was dead. I have a portable jumper I used to bring it back to life. Not sure I have the updates... could anyone tell me what they charged you to do the software updates related to the 12v battery? Car is out of warranty and extended warranty since March.

 

Car had been fine for the last couple days, but I still may replace the battery since it is now about 6 years old.

 

Can anyone recommend a jumper with narrow clamps that will fit the tight space under the red rubber thingy?

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I had battery drain problems when I first got my 2013 FFE Titanium. It was a wire bundle short in the back (I suspect the rubbing problem someone mentioned above). They replaced the battery once, before finding this problem. No problems really since then except when I parked at an airport for a week, unplugged, outside in the heat. Fortunately the parking lot could give me a jump.

 

Fast forward to last Monday. I was gone for 1 week, and had the car parked outside in the blazing heat in MD, unplugged in my driveway. When I got home, the battery was dead. I have a portable jumper I used to bring it back to life. Not sure I have the updates... could anyone tell me what they charged you to do the software updates related to the 12v battery? Car is out of warranty and extended warranty since March.

 

Car had been fine for the last couple days, but I still may replace the battery since it is now about 6 years old.

 

Can anyone recommend a jumper with narrow clamps that will fit the tight space under the red rubber thingy?

 

I can't remember how much they charged me for the updates, but I made them update every module on the car.  It was at least a couple hundred bucks.

 

That being said, I've never had a dead battery, and I'm still on the original sealed lead-acid battery.  I had the car taken in for antifreeze service a couple weeks ago and they tested the battery, and it checked out just fine.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just curious if anyone has tried just cleaning the terminals? Issue happened to me on Monday for first time and again today (Friday) both times while overnight plugged in 13hrs. 37 mile commute 33 of it at 80.

 

Hilarious part (for you :) ) is after Monday I threw the cables in the trunk from out of my truck.... and then broke the fuel door release while trying to open the trunk ... after that I just grabbed a charger hahah fun morning lol

 

Might want to keep cables on the floor in the back

 

Anyway before I replace the 12v has anyone cleaned battery terminals and problem went away? Or tried and problem stuck around? Watched a video about a leaf and they mentioned without high amp starter motor the 12v never gets high amp draw... they just replaced the battery but it made me think about the high amp micro arc that would occur and arc itself a path that almost cleans a path on the post?

Edited by PackN1
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  • 2 weeks later...

A previous post indicated firmware updates.

 

Can someone tell me how to view the version number and what the current version would be for a 2015 FFE?

 

Not having any problems but just wanted to know if it should crop up.

 

Thanks!

 

You can't.  You need dealer OBD2 software in order to do so, and it's extremely expensive for the hardware and software.  I'm not aware of any consumer OBD2 scanners that can view software versions... but some might.  I doubt they'll tell you what the latest software is, so you may not know if it needs upgrading or not.

 

Some mom & pop auto repair places have dealership diagnostic software... I personally used it once to upgrade all of the firmware in the wife's Ford Focus (have a good working relationship with that garage - they were busy, and they just handed me the laptop with the programmer and let me do it in the parking lot).  It is very time consuming - to upgrade all of the computers in the Fusion took about 4 hours, and to do the ones in the Focus took about 2 (not all modules had updates).

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Just FYI - been 2 weeks now since I cleaned battery terminals/posts. No symptoms as of yet and as mentioned in previous post happened to me twice in a week while on charger overnight.

Spoke too soon happened again this am and am now getting battery message as soon as I turn the car on...

 

Again was plugged in overnight and happened in am.

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The 12 volt battery is charged when charging of the HVB is complete.  Once 12 volt battery charging is complete it will not restart even if the battery drops to zero volts.  I've never tested it but it is possible that accessing the car from the app will, since it wakes the car up.  If the car has gone into deep sleep the app won't work.  If you are close enough for the fob to work, locking or unlocking may work.

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Once 12 volt battery charging is complete it will not restart even if the battery drops to zero volts.

 

There is a firmware update that WILL re-engage the EVSE to charge the 12v battery if it gets too low, even after charging is long completed.  I've seen it several times with my own car.  Get all of the computer modules in your car updated and you won't have a dead 12v.

 

I know you replaced yours with some AGM battery, but I still have my original battery that came with the car, and it was tested a couple months ago when I had the antifreeze service done, and it tested just fine.

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My date of manufacture is 11/16 and I didn’t Think there were module updates available beyond that are there?

 

Just seems odd... just looked at app and says started charging at 6:17pm thurs and finished at 11:05 (guessing that is the time that it entered trickle mode)... got in the car at 5:50 am ... depletes freshly charged battery in 6-7 hrs?

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My date of manufacture is 11/16 and I didn’t Think there were module updates available beyond that are there?

 

Just seems odd... just looked at app and says started charging at 6:17pm thurs and finished at 11:05 (guessing that is the time that it entered trickle mode)... got in the car at 5:50 am ... depletes freshly charged battery in 6-7 hrs?

 

Mine is a 2013, and I had all of the modules upgraded in 2015, and there haven't been any updates since.  10 modules, 10 updates when I did it.  Software is always changing and being updated, bugfixes, etc.  However, no car aside from Tesla GETS these upgrades unless you take the car to the stealership and pay them to update your car, and they won't upgrade any of them for free UNLESS you can prove you have some sort of issue with that specific module that is covered under warranty, and then they'll only upgrade that specific module.  Even used cars very likely don't get any software updates because it's so time consuming.  If it starts, runs, and drives, ship it!

 

If your car is sucking down a 12v battery in 7 hours, you have some sort of parasitic drain in the car such as a short circuit, frayed wiring, fans stuck on, modules stuck on, etc.  That could be resolved with a software update, or it may require additional troubleshooting... yay for the complexity of modern vehicles.  I saw one video where a Ford Escape would suck down the 12v in no time at all, and it was the instrument cluster.  About every 10 - 15 minutes, they'd see the gauges flutter for a few seconds, even though it appeared to be off.  One of the weirdest things I've seen.

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My date of manufacture is 11/16 and I didn’t Think there were module updates available beyond that are there?

 

Just seems odd... just looked at app and says started charging at 6:17pm thurs and finished at 11:05 (guessing that is the time that it entered trickle mode)... got in the car at 5:50 am ... depletes freshly charged battery in 6-7 hrs?

Here's a thread on bad 12V batteries in the 2017s: https://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/topic/4751-2017-fusion-energi-dead-battery-issues/?do=findComment&comment=28639

 

The dealer declared mine bad and replaced it a little more than one year from manufacture of my 2017, which was 06/2016.

 

Maybe you're just another victim of the 2017 bad battery syndrome?

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