jj2me

Here is a quick-and-dirty Google Sheets calculator for the pump price break even point, given your particular kWh price. Please only change column B entries, rows 3 through 12. (kWh/100 mi. = 35 is the design spec, I don't know when or how that should be altered.) Typically you would only set the Charge efficiency percentage to 72 for Level 1 charging, or 80 for Level 2 charging. You might want to change the Hybrid mpg to whatever you usually get for the type of driving you're comparing. For example, using 42 hybrid mpg, a $6.00/gal. pump price compares to a kWh charge of $0.295 using a L1 charger, and $0.325 using a L2 charger Changing to 38 hybrid mpg, we get comparable kWh costs of $0.325 for L1 and $0.36 for L2. The average CA cost of electricity of $0.3276 kWh.

If plugging in is not a requirement, i.e., if DJ Will is looking at this Energi mainly because he's offered a great price for a car in great shape, won't an Energi with a badly degraded battery perform just like a Fusion Hybrid if he never plugs in? Seems like it should, but I'm not sure if there's some downfall.

I had great luck with the 12V AGM battery replacement as described in this post. I commented on my experience a few posts later.

The chart in this tweet makes it look bad for Ford's and GM's survival. And that's before the new union contract eats into margins. https://twitter.com/carlquintanilla/status/1729458525280075797?t=1xBubD_-AVMdhV5RbGwd8w&s=19 I also heard a description of the problem of updates, that the legacy manufacturers continue using outside parts suppliers, but now with software everywhere, those auto manufacturers don't have control over all the code that may need to be changed, unlike Tesla who has control of all their parts manufacturing, and software.

Re-tested today, ~73°, windows rolled up, no accessories running. Oct. 2023, 34K miles, 5.4 kWh, 25.7 miles June 2021, 27K miles: 5.5 kWh, 27.4 miles June 2017, 10.5K miles: 5.5 kWh, 26.3 miles I'm a L1 charger (about to change, as I installed a L2 at the house I'm moving to) who aims for an 80% charge, and I never drive in EV or Auto above ~50 mph.

I have a 2017 and had the 12V battery problem (it was replaced early, like a bit over a year after its build date. It had no discernable cause like you listed, and a new battery fixed the problem and lasted 4 or 5 years. Could many of the 2017s been mistreated as far as their 12V batteries, before purchase? Mine was bought as a CPO from a dealer, with all indications it was a fleet car. There were a lot of 2017 fleet cars on the market. Maybe plating occurred if there was intermittent use by the fleet owners where the 12V discharged completely. Similarly, maybe Hermasillo-manufactured cars like mine were mistreated where they were left to discharge often before sale. Maybe there were too many 2017s built for the demand and sat on dealer lots and discharged the smaller capacity (compared to ICE cars) 12V often. Maybe 2017s or some subset had some fault that continued to discharge the 12V (e.g., CD player running constantly, or any of what you listed) that got fixed before sale, and we owners can't trace the cause because we never saw the fault. Things like this fit with my experience of having no concomitant problem, just needing a new battery.

My 2017 intermittently does the same, I think it has occurred only at times when I overfill the trunk, and just one or two times did it also glitch for a few backups after I remove the overfull condition. I haven't gotten around to looking at the problem.

Good point. My bad, failed to think of that. Recalculating, using jsamp's figures and your 5.6 kWh total real capacity, I get: 30% (5.6) real = 3.5% dash 50% (5.6) real = 36% dash 70% (5.6) real = 67% dash

1.1 kWh and the smaller hybrid battery icon showing about 1/3 full was the lowest I had observed on a long stretch in hybrid mode. At that point, the FFE would replenish the HVB a bit via the ICE. The 1.1 kWh was according to PID BAT_TO_EMPTY_ESTIM. That was with a very good HVB with 5.5 kWh usable.

Thanks much. I must have mentally written off that screen due to never using value charging (it's an outdoor car).

I may not be understanding those figures of 0%, 60%, and 25%. If I understand what you're saying, it's that you want to keep your battery charge between 30% and 70% of real capacity, generally centering on 50%, which would be .3 x 7.6 kWh = 2.28 kWh .7 x 7.6 kWh = 5.32 kWh .5 x 7.6 kWh = 3.8 kWh The dash display and SoC PID both read 0% at 1.5 kWh or less and 100% at 7.1 kWh (car protects from charge level being more than 7.1 kWh by enforcing a 0.5 kWh safety buffer). Assuming the increments in percentage on the dash display/PID are linear wrt kWh, then each percentage point = .056 kWh (5.6 kWh/100). The 30% real of 2.28 kWh has a corresponding dash display of 14% ( (2.28 - 1.5) / .056 ). The 70% real of 5.32 kWh has a corresponding dash display of 68% ( (5.32 - 1.5) / .056 ). The 50% real of 3.8 kWh has a corresponding dash display of 41% ( (3.8 - 1.5) / .056 ). My 2017 dashboard display doesn't show percentage of charge except upon startup. To get a constant reading I need to plug in an OBDII dongle and monitor the SoC PID.

The Ford Fusion forum is what you want. The Energi (addressed in this forum) has a different engine, a 2.0L Atkinson-cycle engine.

Best to put a trickle charger, like a Battery Tender, on the 12V if you have a garage. A less desirable option is to disconnect the 12V (troublesome, reconnecting and having the engine relearn). If you have an AGM 12V battery (more resilient to battery depletion), you could do nothing. I've gone a week of non-use on a lead-acid 12V battery and it started right up, and that battery lasted 5 years.

https://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/topic/4751-2017-fusion-energi-dead-battery-issues/?do=findComment&comment=35166

Honk back at a white 2017 you see around Red Bank, which'll be envious of your 2019's greater range. EDIT: Never mind. I see from another post you're in New England, not near that dealer named on the plates.

This worked perfectly. I think this is the current best answer for those wanting a replacement 12V AGM battery. Here also is a detailed step-by-step YouTube video, altered only by alphaman's two notes. The only slight differences (which you can't miss) that I encountered with the YouTube instructions for my 2017 Energi was for pushing the side panel aside: 1) my 2017 had a push clip to be removed, and 2) my 2017 had the green fuel door pulltag that has to be pushed through a ready-made slit for that purpose in order to push the side panel out 90 degrees. For those who prefer text or want to do a hot swap, here's murphy's text instructions. I did nothing special in purchasing the battery, but also found a 10% courtesy discount was applied. I didn't do a hot swap, and was without a 12V battery for about an hour 10 minutes. Since nav destinations and radio selections are intact, those must be stored in flash, at least in the 2017. Thanks very much, alphaman, for finding and trying this solution and for the detailed post and pics. Great stuff!

There's usually a benefit of the extra weight: a smoother ride. I've never driven a hybrid so can't say for sure, but the FFE is smooth riding. As murphy said to me when I was dickering about buying mine, "It's a great car." At about $0.14/kWh in electricity costs, it costs about $1.00 for 20 miles. That was appreciated when gas was over $5. But if you're not keen on plugging it in, then you might want to cross-shop against hybrids for features and price.

Did you start up the car with your OBDII dongle plugged in and Torque Pro running? I had all sorts of chimes and lights and warnings, all due to that. Here's my post on that.

Here's a thread where a 2013 Escape 17x4.5 donut worked. The OP there had 17" original tires. Another poster reported it worked for them too.

That's strange. I also have a 2017 Fusion Energi, and my EV-Later average mileage is just about the advertised 42, maybe hitting as low as 35 for periods when I'm really hustling. On one long trip, I wanted to see how accurately the computer calculated trip mileage, so I did a fillup-to-fillup test, and the computer and my calculations agreed almost exactly, 44.1 mpg. These are only highway figures--I don't have much occasion for city driving that's not EV-Now.

There was a spate of used FFEs that came on the market around 2017 that were said to be former fleet vehicles, that were likely never plugged in. Their high-voltage batteries showed little, if any, degradation. Also, one poster here runs his Energi in hybrid mode all summer, to avoid degradation due to high temps. IIRC he said he runs at 0% charge most of the summer. There will be no problem due to running yours strictly as a hybrid. Just the benefit that you won't be degrading your HVB as much as the rest of us who plug in.

A place for information and to discuss this is in this multi-page thread dedicated to the 4G modem replacement. You are very lucky to get free labor, since that only applies to those who got the customer satisfaction letter, i.e., those who are within the free trial period (your are not). Either lucky, or your dealer doesn't know these details (labor not covered by FoMoCo) and could come back with a labor charge. If your use of the modem/app is strictly to monitor charge levels while charging (perhaps to limit charge to less than 100%), or for the 100%-charged alert, a poor-man's substitute is to see how much time it takes currently to add one percent charge (my car adds 1% charge every three minutes). Then set your watch or phone for an alarm when your charge level should approximately be achieved.

This post and thread is saying that MyFordMobile will be gone, replaced by FordPass:

If I understand this correctly, it seems most FFEs are no longer under the free trial. Assuming they start counting from the build date, only some 2017s (those built after ~November/December 2016), and all 2018s will get the free labor (and owner letter).

I'm unfamiliar with the derivation of EV's 4 mi./kWh. I'm also unfamiliar with the reserved "headroom" of the 9.6 kWh Fusion HVBs. But for the 7.6 kWh 2013-2017 FFEs, there's 2.0 kWh not available for EV driving (EV/Auto use) on a fully charged HVB. Assuming the 9.6 kWh FFEs also have the same 2.0 kWh headroom, that would leave 7.6 kWh for full EV use. The monroney for a 2020 with that 9.6 kWh battery uses 26 miles for EV driving range. Calculations: Monroney: 26/7.6 = 3.42 mi./kWh Observed: 28.8/7.6 = 3.78 mi./kWh Assuming instead that the headroom is proportionally larger than what the 7.6 kWh FFEs', then that would be 2.5 kWh of headroom, and the calculations above would be 3.66 and 4.06 mi./kWh. EDIT: Forget the following. While true, it doesn't apply here because you didn't do any EV calculations that were derived from the 33.7 kWh figure, like MPGe or kWh/100 miles as listed on the monroney] Comparison calculations of gasoline cars vs. EVs need to adjust for the fact that the 33.7 kWh gasoline equivalent number is "in the tank" for actual gasoline burning engines vs. 33.7 kWh is what's seen at the wall for EVs. For the Energi, which is supplied with a Level 1 charger, you need to adjust for the L1 72% charging efficiency.