TX NRG

Not sure this will fix your issues but the iPhone app v3.1.21 from Dec 6th lists "Updated 2017 Vehicle Images and Other minor bug fixes".

It could be that your TCU/modem has gone bad and needs to be reset or replaced in order to connect again to MFM. It will try repeatedly and drain your 12V battery if not plugged in and if your battery is old. It could be re-engaging the EVSE to charge the 12V. The FSA 15N04 replaces the TCU/Modem with a 3G one. There was a 2015 TSB, later superseded by a 2016 TSB, to replace faulty TCUs that were causing drained 12V batteries. That TSB also involved insulating some cables in the left trunk coming from the 12V to the HVB fans. I just got my 2013 FFE back today after my TCU/modem was replaced with the 3G once they got the parts and installed a new 12V battery. My TCU apparently failed as it went 9 days without connecting to MFM and drained/finished off the original 12V battery when I didn't leave it plugged in one night last weekend. The wife's 2015 CMax Energi had no MFM connection problems during that period parked right next to mine so it wasn't a 2G coverage issue. Hers is due for the same FSA 3G modem upgrade and I'll make sure they get the parts in before I bring it to the shop for the 2 hour replacement job.

Inquiring minds want to know.... Can you post the answer here to share with the rest of us?

I was just noting a difference between auto brake hold and the suggestion so people would have more info. Cars rows back do remain stopped for many seconds after the light has turned green and brake lights help warn approaching drivers. Sorry, I didn't intend to piss in your Cheerios.

Since your rear brake lights won't be illuminated, this could increase your chances of getting hit from behind by a distracted and/or impaired driver.

Ave fuel economy for cars just purchased is often negatively distorted by all the short test drives and people sitting in a running vehicle with depleted battery (dealers don't keep them charged) and AC on, trying out all the technology features. Once you power cycle your car 3 or more times the CEL should go away if there are no problems, otherwise it's back to the dealer.

My rule of thumb now is to use EV Later for speeds of 55+ since battery use goes up considerably with the higher speeds and EV Now or Auto for lower speeds. When new, I did my entire 22.5 mile trip to work in EV Now and was able to go 5-7 more miles of the return trip home before the battery was depleted. For the last year or so since the battery degraded so much that I can only make it 17 or 18 miles, I've been using EV Later when I'm traveling at highway speeds. If I use AC or heat, battery range is of course even less. If buying a used vehicle from a warm climate, watch out for degraded battery capacity likely due to overheated cells from a stuck/defective airflow door in the Energi battery ventilation system.

My 2013 just passed 40k miles and am down to 4.1 - 4.2 kWh used from a full battery.

Yes. If your vehicle is equipped with the Intelligent Access with Push Button Start feature, you can temporarily disable the Automatic Engine Idle Shutdown (AEIS) component. To disable this feature, use your steering wheel controls to navigate to the Settings menu on your left-hand Instrument Cluster LCD display. From there, select Vehicle >Auto Engine Off >Off. The next time you start your vehicle, the AEIS will automatically reset to "On."

My EV+ only turns on approaching home where it is charged. It never turns on anywhere else including at my office parking spot (2 years/no charging) nor any other frequent destinations. My wife's 8 month old C-Max Energi never shows EV+ anywhere and I've confirmed the setting is on multiple times. Go figure.

Nope, those 2 miles were lost about 1.5 years ago when Ford adjusted their EPA MPG estimates downward. They sent out checks in the mail for compensation.

I like the LED headlights and fogs (finally) but not what they've done with the new grill.

I am seeing similar battery capacity degradation of about 26% on my 2013 now with 32,000 miles. When new, it would use 5.8 kWh on a trip before depletion and the ICE turning on. For the last 6-9 months, that is averaging only 4.3 kWh. 1.5/5.8=25.9% I was expecting only about 5%-10% degradation by this time. I took it in recently for the recall work and reported the HVB capacity issue and asked them to test the HVB but they ran out of time in the day. I'll have to bring it in again to get it tested and see what they find and what my options are.

I asked to get on the 3.8 list but was told to ask the dealer to install it. My wife's C-Max Energi had 3.8 offered for her vehicle so I used her files and did the upgrade on my Fusion Energi. Our cars with MyFord Touch cannot use SYNC AppLink . "SYNC AppLink is available on select models and compatible with select smartphone platforms. SYNC AppLink is not compatible with MyFord Touch. Commands may vary by phone and SYNC AppLink software."

Just found this, sent my VIN to FordIVTteam to get the 3.8 upgrade added to my account which says I'm up to date but stuck on 3.6.2.

I've experienced this when braking over a bump in both my Fusion Energi and my wife's Cmax Energi. It is a brief loss of braking which feels like you lurch forward and you have to stomp the pedal to engage the friction brakes to make up for lost time. Hopefully there is nothing close in front of you.

I've never experienced this where the HVB was forced on. In very hot weather and high battery usage, sometimes after charging, the vehicle switches to auto with the engine supplying all power, not the HVB. It displays the "Engine on due to system performance" message and the blue EV icon in the left screen turns yellow.

My 2013 has over 29,000 miles. Its electric range is down about 23%. When new I would get around 5.6 - 5.8 kWh out of a full charge. Now I only get 4.3 - 4.4 kWh. :(

My 2013 used to get 5.5/5.6 kWh from a full charge but now as it approaches 25k miles it consistently only gets 4.4/4.5. That is 20% and a lot bigger drop off than what I expected.

"The 2013 Ford C-Max and C-Max Energi are examples of what it takes to develop conventional hybrid and plug-in versions of the same vehicle—that is, many specific parts, software, and validation. Both cars have lithium-ion (nickel-manganese-cobalt oxide) cells, which are chemically very similar. But those in the plug-in C-Max Energi, which has a 21-mi (34-km) EV range, have thicker electrodes and store more energy. .... The “full” or conventional HEV version of the C-Max has 76 of the power cells wired in series, rated at 1.4 kWh. The plug-in Energi has 84 of the energy type in series, rated at 7.6 kWh. The plug-in uses 6.5 kWh for EV range and allows a residual of 1.1 kWh for HEV operation. The physical size of the Energi PHEV pack, of course, is much greater. The HEV cells are each 120 x 85 x 13 mm (4.72 x 3.35 x 0.51 in); the Energi's are 148 x 91 x 26 mm (5.83 x 3.58 x 1.02 in). And the Energi pack has higher peak voltage (361 vs. 327, during regenerative braking). There's comparable HEV capacity for such operations as idle stop/restart, Ford engineers said." http://articles.sae.org/11705/

Agreed. I was just pointing out the differences in spec for the Energi and FFH (and Cmax Hybrid) HEV portion of the HVB pack. My 2013 used to use up to 5.4 or 5.5 kWh in EV mode but now regularly gets only 4.6 - 4.8 kWh out of it.

FWIW, the Energi uses 6.5 kWh for EV range and allows a residual of 1.1 kWh for HEV operation. The FFH battery pack is slightly higher at 1.4 kWh for HEV operation.

Thanks. The site owner was able to get the pop over ads turned off.

Glad that your long wait for a replacement vehicle is nearly over. Too bad you couldn't find a deal on one in TX to take advantage of the new $2,500 state rebate and avoid the transport delays. Hope you enjoy your new ride!

Curious. Why do you suggest discriminating and not offer it to all people?