jsamp

Sorry to hear of your woes. You definitely seem to have a lemon on your hands. The shifting issue (being in park but rolling) is likely the recall on the transmission shift cable bushing. has that been fixed on your car yet? Many of the other items sound like moisture got into the electronics and created a corrosion issue. Lots of fault lights and strange behavior indicate an electronics issue, rather than all the mechanical parts going bad at the same time. That doesn't help your situation any, as the problem(s) cause the car to be unusable. The only good news is if it is happening that often, the dealer won't have to have it long to start seeing the issues pop up. I wish you well, but getting rid of the turd seems to be your only good option.

I've also had water in the trunk this winter, but it was the trunk lid seal that was my issue. Seems there is more than one leak path to the trunk on these Fusions. (edit: sorry for repeating myself - I thought this was a different thread)

There is no alternator on the Energi's. It uses a DC-DC converter from the HVB to run/charge the 12V circuit and battery. I have been getting a few warnings recently when driving for more than an hour on hybrid mode. I'm wondering if my DC-DC converter is having issues.

The stock tire is the Michelin Energy Saver A/S which is a 94V tire. It never hurts to go higher, but what you got is what is recommended.

So now I am having the water in the trunk issues. In my case it is the seal around the trunk lid. Water runs down the side of the trunk lid and gets between the lid and the gasket/seal. It then collects in the bottom of the trunk where the fan unit is. Now I am also having a 12V charging issue. Got a couple of wrench lights and a "charging system fault" for the 12V battery. I think my DC/DC converter has issues. I need to troubleshoot.

Agreed. Ford's rationale for the 20 miles was flawed. Obviously they wanted to use the lowest possible cost battery to keep the price down, so they used the "average" commute, but assumed you could charge at work too. That gave them a battery that was too small to push a car that large/heavy. Thus the battery degradation issues especially with freeway driving. It really was a no-win situation for Ford, but they could have made better choices.

I'd say that isn't quite accurate. The 2013-2018's are not part of this recall, because they have a different (older) battery. When Ford updated the battery in 2019 adding 20% more capacity (9.0 kWh total), something went haywire. The older 7.6kWh batteries (like my 2015 with 114k miles on it) are doing just fine and do not have this issue. It was the battery cell designer/manufacturer who pushed this "new" battery out that was probably the premature move.

Welcome Pheonix. That makes 2 recently (you and user @REM) who have 300k miles on an energi. Way more than my 114k. I have a '69 Cougar that I thought I would do the same (drive it forever then give to a Ford museum). But after ~330k miles and some mechanical issues I didn't have time to address, I stopped driving it. That, and the fact that EVs were coming out and I didn't really enjoy driving an 18MPG vehicle spewing out all that pollution. So it sits in my driveway as a retirement restoration project. I would seriously doubt the energi could make 1,000,000 miles without needing several battery replacements, and replacements are going to be VERY hard to get soon. Yes, you might be able to rebuild one yourself if you are an extreme tinkerer (with good elec skills). But I fear keeping the battery working for that long will be the Achille's heel of the project. Don't mean to be a downer on your idea, just looking at it semi-realistically. What I'd really like to know is what kind of condition your battery is in at 300k miles? Can you run the "battery test" mentioned in a bunch of threads on here and report back? I'd love to hear how many kWh you can pull. I've recently dipped below 5.0kWh on that test. Cheers.

A little more description would be helpful. Typically when you plug in it does a 'demo mode' display where each segment of the light ring illuminates in sequence until each light has lit and gone out twice. After this, it then lights up whatever quadrant is charging and 'pulses' on and off on that quadrant until it is full, then it stays lit and moves on to the next quadrant, which flashes until it is full. When you plug in, what happens? Does the ring do the 2x around the ring light sequence? Once that is done, does the first quadrant light up and start the slow pulsing? Does it ever move on to the other quadrants? Sometimes quadrants burn out and stop working, but if you are getting no charge, that is not likely the case. This may require a trip to your dealer for diagnosis. Edit: did you have the service done relative to the HV battery recall on 2019 and 2020 energi's? If so, your battery has been disabled by Ford and won't accept a charge.

Update: So far it seems to be the foam trunk lid seal. The water runs from the channel down the sides, and as it does it brushes against the side of the foam trunk seal. At that point it transitions to the edge of the seal and continues down around the corner until it found a gap to leak in at the bottom. I pulled the seal up on the metal lip that it clips to hoping to get better contact between the seal and the trunk lid. So far it worked, but it has only rained once since doing this. Now that we are near the end of our rainy season, I may have to do more testing with a garden hose sprayer.

Not sure what your dead battery issue is, but there are some possibilities. 1) DC charging circuit is fried - this would be fed by the DC-DC converter. 2) Old weak battery (has it been replaced? it's 3-4 years old now). You could use a trickle charger at night instead of plugging in the HVB. Rig up a quick-disconnect plug to either the battery in the trunk or the posts under the hood and you could quickly plug in a trickle charger.

Hey all, In the last couple days I've seen a wrench light twice, with the useless message "see manual". I need am OBD reader and was wondering what your recommendations are? I recall one model someone said doesn't play well with the Energi's so I'd like to hear the good and the bad for the different models. TIA.

People won't be satisfied with a 20% reduction in battery capacity as a "fix". And it would cost Ford too much to use the older batteries as a temporary fix only to replace them again when the new ones come into stock. I'd also bet they only have a few of the older ones in stock and not nearly enough to fill the need required by this recall. Basically Ford doesn't support this vehicle any more as it is out of production. They have to get replacement batteries to fulfill the original battery warranty, but beyond that they have no interest.

I've had that fan come on sometimes and others not when plugging in. I've even had it come on when I plug in but have it on "value charge" where it won't start charging until later. I always assumed it would come on if the battery was too hot and it wanted to cool down.

You have to reset the engine oil counter. On my 2015 you use the left dash screen and the left steering wheel buttons to select these options: Settings > Vehicle > Oil Life Reset. Then hold the middle <OK> button for 5 seconds to reset. I've not heard of this preventing the car from going into EV mode though. Not sure if this will fix that issue or not. Let us know.

Since the air intake for the battery is from the rear deck inside the car, they may be assuming the cabin filter has already filtered the air. That assumes you don't roll down the windows when driving though, so a weak assumption at best. I have not heard of a replaceable filter for the battery or charging unit. I don't know much about Forscan or other scanner tools, but I doubt you could make any changes to the fan curves. It sure would be nice though.

So this winter I've been noticing excessive condensation on the inside of the front windshield on my evening/nighttime trips. I was concerned that there might be a leak somewhere and water was collecting in the carpet or somewhere. After searching the entire interior from the headliner to the floor I was unable to find anything. Then today I was getting something out of the trunk and noticed the right side of the trunk floor was wet. Upon closer inspection there was even the beginnings of some mold there. I pulled the trunk floor panel out, and it was wet on both ends, but not in the middle. The fibrous material underneath on both ends was SOAKED and dripping. Further digging and removal of parts revealed about 1/4" of standing water in the bottom pan under the foam air compressor holder insert (around the battery cooling ducts) - Ah HA! found the condensation source. Next up was to find the leak point. Being on both sides but not in the middle, I suspected the tail lights. Upon inspection I noticed that the water drain channel around the trunk opening goes down across part of the tail light assembly. There is a rubber flap at the top of that assembly, but it doesn't seal fully - I could see small gaps. Tried feeling around in the trunk to see if there was a trail of water from there to the bottom but it was hard to confirm. For now, I calked one tail light and am drying everything out. The next rain (probably this weekend) should be able to confirm whether this fixed the issue if the right is dry and the left is wet. I'll report back if I find anything conclusive. Anyone else have water in the trunk or hear of other Fusion owners (energi or not) that have this issue?

Sounds like either a fuse blew, or your resistance heating coil has gone bad. Check the fuse diagram to see if you can find the one for the heater coil.

"horrible mileage as a hybrid" ? Really??? The 2019's are rated at 42MPG combined, and driven carefully can reach upwards of 48MPG. While that is a far cry from what you get when 50% of your miles come from EV mode, it is nothing to sneeze at. Unfortunately Ford has really dropped the ball on this one. So far the only promise is a fix is coming "late 2024" and the $250 is supposed to tide you over. Poor showing by Ford IMHO.

Here's a link from Ford for the Energi: https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/vdirsnet/OwnerManual/Home/Content?variantid=6212&languageCode=en&countryCode=USA&Uid=G1519031&ProcUid=G1517478&userMarket=USA&div=f&vFilteringEnabled=False&buildtype=web It only says it is "in the tank" and doesn't specify, but says it is not a replaceable part.

Read the first two posts on this thread above. Your question is already answered. Same car, same year as yours. https://ford.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/ford-fuel-pump-and-sender-assembly-eg9z9h307d

Agree with terminator. That Amazon listing is full of misprints. If it is truly 110V (120V) 16A then there is no way it is 3.8kW. The two don't agree. That also means it is not 3x faster. I suspect they re-used a description from an L2 240V unit for this one (which would be 3x faster). That is VERY common on cheap products imported en masse. My understanding is that the Energi has a max of 12A @ 110/120V and 16A @220/240V. I guess it can do less if the EVSE has a lower limit, but the Energi can do no higher. PS: you can use any charging cord with the energi that has a J1772 connector, but remember you get what you pay for. I'd go with a Clipper Creek unit with a good warranty and known reliability.

That's a bit of a jump from "it's got a weak battery" to "just use it as a hybrid". If he's looking at an Energi I presume he wants at least some EV miles out of it. Otherwise no point in paying more for the Energi. The added downfall is 33% less trunk space than a hybrid, which is already 25% reduced from an ICE fusion.

Good point terminator. Results are best around 70°F. The ranges I show are related to that temperature. I don't have a good reference for doing this test at a lower temperature.

If they'll let you, do a full battery test. It'll take up to an hour depending on the route you choose: Start with a 100% full battery set the car to EV mode set a trip odometer to zero gently drive a route that is <50MPH, preferably with as few stops as possible drive until left screen says "EV mode not available" which is ~30 seconds after reaching 0% on the battery Look on the trip odometer for both miles driven and especially kWh used. Here's a guide on the health of the battery: 5 - 5.5 kWh - Great shape 4.5 - 5 kWh - good shape 4-4.5 kwh - fair shape 3.5-4 kWh - poor shape 3-3.5 kWh - awful shape < 3 kWh run away! With 90k miles I wouldn't expect the top tier, and even 2nd tier is unlikely though possible. if it is at least 4kWh and a good price, I'd go for it. Also pay attention to the miles you got in the test - is it enough for your intended use (commute) with some buffer for the cold days?