jsamp

You say you are talking about a hybrid, then talk about HV charging, then compare life of a hybrid. You're mixing your metaphors, so to speak. Battery life on a hybrid will be longer than an Energi. Some Energi's have started showing significant degradation in ~30k miles. I babied mine and it stayed great until ~90k (still doing good, but not great at 110k). That's as much due to how you drive it as anything. Yes, charging to only ~80% is a good way to extend the life of the battery. That is why the hybrids stay in a narrow range of SOC. Charging 240V vs 120V hasn't been proven to make any difference on battery life. I'm not saying you're wrong, but nothing proves you right either. 240V charging is still in the <.5C range so not hard on the battery. Worst things are high drain rate (lead foot in EV mode), high temps, and keeping battery at 100% too much. These are mostly Energi issues as the hybrid will always use the ICE upon demand and always keeps the battery in the middle SOC range.

I haven't seen that one. What years does it say it applies to? All energi's?

Now same on my 2015 FFE. I know i used value charge within the last month. Now neither the "Charge Now" and "Value Charge" buttons on the center screen are highlighted. I can press either one and get a 'beep' but nothing actually happens. Value charge times have all reset to --:--. I can set the times, but hitting 'save' doesn't actually save them. I've never touched the modem so I've still got the original 3G. I also don't have MFM and have never linked the car to any WiFi. How did it get the update to change? Did it just find some random unsecured WiFi and download an update? Really frustrating that I can't even do a simple value charge time on the center screen. It knows what time and day it is based on the GPS. Car shouldn't need anything more than that to do value charge. I'll have to try pulling fuses this weekend and see what happens.

He hasn't been on this site since 2015 (click on user profile). he's not around to answer.

You need to be clearer and more specific if you want us to understand your issue. The only time the motor charges the battery is when you are slowing down or braking. Does the HV battery have at least some charge on it (miles on the display)? Does the battery charge when you plug it in? Will it drive in EV mode? Will it drive at all? Answers to those will help.

That might be the "sound-deadening material" spoken of in the post right above yours. I didn't even notice it on mine when I replaced my air filter last year.

Can't say I've heard of this ever before. Not sure what the cause or solution might be. Sorry.

To be honest I'm having difficulty understanding what you are talking about. I'm not sure what you mean by "forcing to charge with regen". If the car is cold and you start up the gas engine, two things will happen: 1) The gas engine will be in cold-start mode where the car will use the HV battery for propulsion for about 30 seconds (depending on temps it could be 1 minute) before revving up the gas engine. and 2) it will NOT turn off the gas engine until it has completely warmed up, no matter what mode you subsequently set the car in (Auto, EV Now, EV Later). Once warmed up (about 5 minutes, sometimes more), it will turn off the gas as the computer deems necessary based on the driving mode selected. Did you replace the High Voltage Battery (for thousands of dollars) or the 12V battery? Sometimes it seems you are talking about one and other times the other. That day in May were both batteries completely dead, or just the HV battery? If you truly had a voltage spike like from a lightning strike, it could have fried many components on many boards. That could be ugly.

There's a thread on here about replacing the stock battery with an AGM as they are better with the slow drain the computers put on the electrical system. There is not a direct drop-in replacement AGM, so there is a suggested alternate. Here's the main post in the thread: good luck.

When you say "plugged the car in" do you mean charging the HV battery or the 12V battery? The HV plug does charge the 12V but only after reaching a full charge on the HVB. Turning the car "on" activates the DC-DC converter from the HVB to charge the 12V. That is why it jumped from 12.6 to 14.8. Give the 12V a full charge and see how it goes. Typically when it starts giving "low batt" messages, the 12V is about to give up the ghost. That is assuming you didn't just drain it temporarily when camping. It might still recover from that with a full charge.

AkMike, Those two haven't been on this site in over 3 years... you're not likely to get any reply. You can try direct messaging them in the hopes that they have alerts sent to their email address.

It's near the bottom on the left side: KG9Z 10B759 EARM Funny how they call it a $600 part when it lists for almost $10 grand. EARM is the reman unit. it replaces the KG9Z 10B759 A https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-reman_battery_kg9z-10b759-earm.html

It is highly unlikely any water got in. The filler tube is above and proud of the surrounding pocket, so any water that ran in wouldn't make it to the opening. Only a direct hit on the flapper would possibly get in, but there is a seal around that flapper because the whole fuel system is pressurized to keep the fuel from spoiling if it sits in the tank for a long time due to high EV use. You're probably fine.

I was away for a few days... I was gonna suggest it might be something shorting out. But I would have no idea what. Hopefully they find it and that does the trick.

Did you pull the fuel door apart (inner and outer pieces separate)? Sometimes the magnet gets lodged in between them and you can't find it unless you pull them apart. Unlikely you can get just the magnet from Ford. Probably have to buy the whole door. From my recollection it is about the size of a dime, but 3-4x thicker. Maybe you can try a "sample kit" of different sized magnets available online or from magnet suppliers like K&J Magnetics. It may take some experimentation on polarity to get it right.

Welcome Jabby! Lots of info around here, though it may take some searching to find your exact issue posted. If not, feel free to post a new topic for help. Someone probably knows the answer.

Well, I'm over 100K so I guess I'll just have to be more careful until it fully stops working. The doors detach, so I can always transfer my door to a new assembly... no painting required.

I doubt you'll find one in a wrecking yard. I think they have to pull the battery out before putting the vehicle in a yard because you can electrocute yourself if you do not know what you are doing. Maybe they have it separate but I suspect that the batteries are sold off to certain companies who have a standing order to purchase any and all hybrid batteries, either for rebuilding or parting off as home battery backup units. I don't know if they actually have one, but this place lists the older part number for $5500: https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-battery_hg9z-10b759-e.html?vin=&make=Ford&model=Fusion&year=2015&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(49839)

I've been having an occasional problem with my charging door the last month or so. Sometimes when I close it, it seems to over-rotate and close about 5° past the correct position. Often it is when I close it really fast, but sometimes even a normal close does it. The problem is it sticks in this poisition... you can't press it, you can only get it open by prying with your finger nail. Anyone seen this before?

Brian - One other thing.... does that cord have a white or black J1772 plug? The white ones were recalled a few years ago due to potential to overheat. Ford replaced them free at the time. I don't know if that still is in effect.

In 2019 Ford increased the battery capacity by 1.4kWh and added all of it to the EV only portion. Thus the 5.6/5.5 kWh for a full discharge is ~7.0 for the 2019 and 2020 versions. So a "good" battery would be somewhere north of 5 kWh. Charging time would increase by ~1 hour as well.

Energi's don't have 18650's - they have prismatic cells. If you are dead set against using the ICE, portable units are a workable solution. The extra weight will affect both acceleration/braking, as well as handling. If you're going to use the portable units I'd use them for L2 charging instead of L1. Reason being efficiency. You're already going from DC to AC to DC again when charging from these. Using L1 is an additional 10% penalty in charging losses vs L2. The heat issue is a catch-22. The trunk heats up during charging, but the system also draws cooling air from the cabin, so no matter where you put the portable units the battery will get hotter using them. Probably best to be in the cabin with a window cracked open, as long as it is not raining. I'd try to find a way to run a heavy duty 10ga extension cord out a window and see if the boss even notices. (Sshhhhh)

What happens when you try a different cord (public charger or friend's cord)? That would give an indication if it might be the car and not the cord.

Continuing this topic with another benefit... power outages! A transformer blew in my neighborhood tonight, and the local elec co. said it would be 2+ hours until we were back on. My computer/router/modem are on a battery backup, but the rest of the house was dark. So I got my 25' trouble light from the garage and plugged it into the 120V outlet on my energi, ran the cord through the window and had light at least for one room in the house! It was an LED bulb so only using ~10W. If I had more sockets I could have lit up the whole house and still been under the 150W rating. The only bummer was the 120V outlet would not work in accessory mode. I had to fully turn on the car to get it to work. After ~1/2 hour it shut off so I had to go out and re-start. Fortunately the power was only out for an hour and a quarter, so it was quick. Power to (and from) the EVs!

That is really strange. I sometimes purposely shut mine off if I didn't realize I was in "Auto" mode and unintentionally started the ICE. But it won't shut off until I'm <5MPH and I have to hold the start button for >3 seconds for it to shut off. I would think it wouldn't shut off at such a high speed. I would doubt it would do any damage to restart at speed, at least in neutral. It may be programmed to not do so, not sure.