cr08

5G vs 4G/LTE I don't think is going to be a problem for a long while. The way all the main US carriers (at least. No idea about in other countries) have things set up is the LTE and 5G sides share the same bands and they can dynamically allocate how much of that band each uses based on what all the connected devices/phones/etc are using at any given moment. So they can easily coexist for quite a while. Does that mean they won't eventually drop LTE altogether? No. But compared to previous gens they have a much longer 'runway' to work with before they have to cut off LTE entirely. Plus there's so many of the bands available they can probably keep one around as a fallback. I know for T-Mobile, Band 12 has been their 'litmus test' and baseline required support for VoLTE service and is a low frequency/high range band. This would be an ideal one to keep as LTE only while everything else eventually moves to 5G IMHO.

Tossing this out there: Looks like we have official confirmation of the latest calibration available from Ford on these TCU's. Had a user post a screenshot from FJDS over on the CyanLabs' forum and looks like UP is the latest calibration level. Although now with a lot of EV functions being removed for us, it's not as big of a deal as it once was. https://community.cyanlabs.net/t/tcu-waiting-for-home-url/13279/16

Any of the OBDLink models and use Forscan on the software side. Best combo for Ford vehicles. If all you want to do is read codes, you can go a little cheaper and get a generic Bluetooth/USB OBD adapter on Amazon/eBay. I'd recommend finding one that can read MS-CAN as well so you get full coverage of modules. EDIT: Here's a thread on the Forscan forums detailing their recommended adapters. They have a few tables listing out the OBDLink models and what's recommended for various tasks: https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6142

As noted, there's no filter on the HVB. ForScan does essentially have a 'test mode' option to manually take control of certain actuators in the car and one is the HVB fan. But there's no way to adjust it's own operating conditions/temp curve outside of that. I know one distant 'pie in the sky' idea I had wanted to try with my own vehicle at some point is build a microcontroller that I can leave installed in the vehicle and have it force the fan to run under conditions I desire. But that'll require some reverse engineering of the CAN bus data which is my biggest roadblock. In the C-Max community, there has been one member who has figured out some details on the cooling operation of these batteries. Given the similar powertrain to the Fusion Hybrid/Energi I imagine the operation is not any different but don't quote me 100% on that. But one key point is that the cooling fan will only come on once the interior cabin temp is at least 20 degrees F below the battery temp. If it's within that window, even if the battery is near overheating, it doesn't do anything. Even then the cooling system is pretty inadequate and even with Max AC and the cabin being an icebox, the battery doesn't cool down fast enough during normal, full EV operation. And I imagine for the Fusion being largely buried inside the trunk (The battery in the C-Max is entirely inside the conditioned cabin space) it just makes it worse. Monitoring the battery temp and keeping it in check is absolutely essential if you worry about longevity and maintaining capacity. Also a semi-unrelated note, but worth mentioning: When plugging in to charge, you may hear a cooling fan running from outside the car. This is just for the onboard charging module. Under normal 'key off, get out, plug in' operation, the battery cooling fan will never come on. Some have tricked it by plugging in while the car is still running and then shut it off. In very hot conditions, avoiding charging or at least limiting to L1 is preferable.

I know on my C-Max, the oil maintenance mode does keep the ICE running 100% of the time even at stops. I imagine the behavior shouldn't be any different with the Fusion. But yeah, sounds like the oil life monitor wasn't reset. The above instructions will do it and should kick it out of that mode. Just an FYI: This should ONLY be done after oil changes. Do NOT do it just to end the oil maintenance mode. This mode is designed to run after the ICE has been repeatedly run for short intervals and not allowed to reach full operating temp. It then runs the ICE 100% to boil off the moisture in the oil accumulated from those short operations. And it'll continue to run even after vehicle restarts until it is satisfied. It basically wants to get to full operating temp for a certain period of time (I don't think this has been documented and I haven't seen anything in the copy of the service manual I have for the C-Max) before it'll end.

In theory there should be no problem doing this if there's no other reoccurring trouble codes. The only caveat I'd make for earlier model years if you plan to run it as a pure hybrid is to disable the EV+ mode. This permits the vehicle to deeply discharge the battery when reaching often visited destinations (ie: work/home) with the intent that it's going to be plugged in when you get there. Being this deeply discharged combined with the natural self discharge that happens as the battery sits/cools has the potential to bring it too low and cause further issues especially for a degraded battery with poor cells. Off topic: TBH, I recommend disabling EV+ for hybrid models as well and without having a plug to charge them up, it's even more of something to worry about. And you're not gaining much out of it there anyways as it just means the ICE is going to work harder at the next start to charge the battery back up. There was one owner who posted here or on the Fusion Hybrid forum a while back that had to have their dealer bring in a large off-board charger after their HVB got deeply discharged from a camping trip when the vehicle was repeatedly 'woken up'/doors opened/etc.. The DC-DC converter actually does wake up and provide some low level ~13V charge even if it is not fully running but unlocked/woken. So based on this anecdote (and one or two others I've seen mentioned over the years with direct EV+ related issues) it seems like there's definitely enough of a 'loophole' in Ford's programming to allow it to discharge to an unsafe state.

Where's your source on this? Just curious so I can follow up on it. Ford has safeguards in place in the form of timeouts and retry limits on the TCU's to keep them from unnecessarily draining the battery. Even for current 4G models, it is useful for areas where no ATT service exists at all.

That's what has been my knowledge of these vehicles (both the C-Max and the Fusion) from the start. It's very basic air cooling using whatever temp air is in the cabin already and that's it. No coolant, no in-battery heaters, etc.. I was just wondering if maybe that changed at all by some random chance in the later model years but everything so far points to no. I just happened to come across someone who was doubling down saying there was a battery heater and was being one of those confidently incorrect types and just wanted to be sure I hadn't missed some big design change in these vehicles. Then again, common sense tells me since Ford was phasing them out, it would be stupid to do a major redesign like that.

I HIGHLY doubt this is the case, but would love some confirmation from actual owners. As a preface, I own a 2013 C-Max Energi which basically shares the same powertrain/battery/etc. as the Fusion Energi. The only change I've seen is the newer Fusion model years got the increased capacity battery. I'm curious if as part of this change did they by any chance add a heating/conditioning system? I'm like 99.999% sure it is not a thing but was told otherwise. Nowhere in any of Ford's manuals or even posts in this forum indicate this that I can find.

If they're asking about the nav SD cards, they're on the old Sync 2/MyFord Touch system which doesn't do AA/CarPlay. And upgrading to Sync 3 to gain that isn't super cheap compared to paying like $25 or so for the SD cards on eBay. That said, I will say the Sync 3 upgrade, IMHO, is one of the best upgrades you can do with these vehicles. It's such an improvement over the old system by far.

While not explicitly listed, it should be included with the Co-Pilot 360 system included on a number of the trims. I'd have a hard time believing Ford would drop such a 'basic' (in terms of driver assist systems) function on newer and higher trim Fusion models. EDIT: Nevermind. Ford has seemingly obfuscated that features the early Co-Pilot systems got but after some further digging, appears the later model years didn't get APA but got damn near every other (even more advanced) driver assist feature. That's actually a surprise for what was a top selling model in their lineup. Sad to see it.

The HVB only provides 12v power/topping up the 12v battery through the DC-DC converter while it is running. When the car is sitting key-off, the HVB is completely disconnected from the rest of the vehicle, leaving the 12v battery to handle things just as an ICE only vehicle.

It does. It follows the remote start timeout and other RS settings you set via the IPC.

19-20 models only https://ford.oemdtc.com/12024/23s33-phev-battery-cell-degradation-2019-2020-ford-fusion-phev

This still confuses me how you have it written but it feels like this is the ICE warmup cycle that @jsamp already covered. By chance when this process begins was the ICE cold/hasn't ran in a while or during that drive cycle? Hopefully to give further clarification how the ICE 'cold start' procedure operates: When the ICE initially starts up cold, it'll essentially idle and not produce any propulsion unless you put in heavy amounts of throttle input. You can view the power split gauges on the dash and the lion's share will be on the EV side with a sliver of white for the ICE. The vehicle is moving mainly on electric power still at this time. And when stopped, it'll also put energy back in the battery while the ICE continues to warm up just to 'bleed off' some of that power. It isn't until the emissions system is happy (within the 30s-1m of warmup previously mentioned) that the car allows the ICE to help propel the vehicle and the power split will then show the ICE side doing most of the work.