shaggy314

https://www.nytimes.com/aponline/2018/08/22/us/ap-us-ford-power-cable-recall.html https://electrek.co/2018/08/22/ford-recalls-charging-cables-electric-vehicles/ Ford text: Recall Date: AUG 20, 2018Recall Title: CONVENIENCE CHARGE CORD REPLACEMENT NHTSA Recall Number: AWAITING#Ford Recall Number: 18S24Recall Description: FORD IDENTIFIED AN ELEVATED RATE OF ALLEGATIONS OF MELTING AND FIRE INVOLVING THE 120V CONVENIENCE CHARGE CORD THAT DID NOT INCLUDE A THERMISTOR. Risk to Safety: AN ELECTRICAL INTERFACE WITH INCREASED CONTACT RESISTANCE BETWEEN THE SUBJECT 120V CONVENIENCE CHARGE CORD PLUG AND WALL OUTLET CAN RESULT IN INCREASED TEMPERATURE AND POTENTIALLY LEAD TO A FIRE. Remedy Program: OWNERS WILL BE NOTIFIED BY MAIL AND (1) REMINDED OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR ADEQUATE WALL OUTLETS AND THAT EXTENSION CORDS SHOULD NOT BE USED UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE AND (2) INSTRUCTED TO TAKE THEIR VEHICLE TO A FORD DEALER TO HAVE THE FACTORY EQUIPPED 120V CONVENIENCE CHARGE CORD REPLACED WITH THE LATEST VERSION OF THE 120V CONVENIENCE CHARGE COD THAT INCLUDES A THERMISTOR. THERE WILL BE NO CHARGE FOR THIS SERVICE. Status: 12 - RECALL INCOMPLETE. REMEDY NOT YET AVAILABLE.Manufacturer Notes: TO CHECK FOR NON-SAFETY-RELATED PROGRAMS APPLICABLE TO YOUR VEHICLE, SEE HTTP://WWW.FORD.COM/OR CALL YOUR FORD DEALER.

Ford recalls 50,000 charging cables delivered with its electric vehicles due to fire risk https://electrek.co/2018/08/22/ford-recalls-charging-cables-electric-vehicles/ https://www.nytimes.com/aponline/2018/08/22/us/ap-us-ford-power-cable-recall.html

I believe Teslas show your first year is the worst and then it levels off. I think Leafs could offer a similar usage, but I'm guessing it is people learning their cars. My Fusion was gradually getting worse and I never showed big drops, just slow decline.

Hehe, amateur; my lifetime average was 96.5 MPGe... (and 219.8 watt/mile) before I sold with a range around 14. This was over 65,000 miles and 4.5 years. I'm sure there are hyper-milers who would laugh at my numbers too. If you want to ruin your battery, absolutely ignore charging and battery crap; better for you to get the Hybrid. If you want the most out of the battery (a consumable), charge to 100% as close to departure as possible. Don't sweat it if you cannot. Things that degrade your battery are heat, high charge, and low charge states. Be realistic you cannot win only try to extend the life of your most expensive part if you can. Certainly use your AC, but also you can be smart. Run the AC while you are plugging in. Precondition the car as Ford allows. I had a sunroof that I only closed with the AC on...

The downside is Tesla has to replace their 12 vt. batteries more often as they then cycle them a BUNCH and kills it in 18-36 months. There is a lot of talk on the Tesla Motors Club forums about this, people have hooked volt and temp meters and graphed it out. You get the first 1-2 replaced under warranty in 4 years.

If there aren't accessories running all the 12vt does is throw the breakers to engage the HVB and everything is happy. I carry a LiOn car jumper (very small) in the car to jump mine in case of dead 12 vt. I wonder if all it'd take is a 12vt lantern battery to throw the breaker for the HVB...

6 months after mine was replaced and I still do not have location based value charging working. Stopped the DAY the 3g modem was replaced. The two answers I get out of Covert Ford in Austin are either it is MyFordMobile's problem or they have no idea what I'm talking about. Annnd today I no longer get remote connections at all. Sigh. Yes, I've pulled all my favorite fuses. I wish I didn't have to be so good at pulling 10 & 13.

I cheat. Back tilt the sunroof, shade slider to show about 5 inches, and lower rear passenger side window about 1/2". This creates a nice swirl air flow around the cabin and out the roof. Works in all but moderate and above rain. I do miss my Acura that had a true zero energy vent, again using sunroof, but all windows up, air came through the car's vents.

yup, stopped working for me last December when they changed the 2g modem out. I've had to manually change value charging since. Pulled all my favorite fuses, no luck. Service department blames MFM.

keep in mind your car knows all miles aren't gas engine miles, so the oil life monitor is only supposed to track overall time and/or gas engine running. If you are like me and 85% electric running, your oil hits the 2 years and not the 20,000 gas miles first. #humblebrag

I've been manually toggling value charging on at home, off at work. Everyone needs to remember that at home or work, you want your battery to rest before charging it back... so we are actually getting a capacity hit as well (microscopic, but it adds up). Energi battery temperature is all air cooled so immediately charging a drain battery and sitting at full charge is detrimental to long term capacity. It's why the Focus is liquid cooled (also allows fast charging). So I get to work, car sits on value charging for about an hour and I remotely set it to charge now. This process used to be 100% automated until the modem replacement as I had location based value charging for home and work that I'd just plug in wherever (home starts at 5 AM, Work at 10 AM) everywhere else immediately. I miss this cool feature working as designed. Sigh.

I've not had location based Value charging since they replaced my modem in December 2016. I get the dog turned head look when I try to describe this to service people... Just today I lost all value charging. I've been manually switching for 6 months. Sigh.

It's a trap. Mine got replaced and for a few weeks it wouldn't update the EV range, suddenly started again. Value charging hasn't worked since it was replaced. It's a pain the ass to keep remember changing the default every time I need delay (at home) and not (everywhere lese). Ford dealership doesn't know what I'm talking about or thinks it's a web site issue. Beware the modem change. Pulling fuse 10 a couple of times now, hasn't helped.

Still doing it after fuse pull. Value charging not behaving either. EV range is still stuck at 0, regardless of SOC. It's the same value as when I dropped it off at Ford for modem replacement. I can locate the car, it does appear to know where it is. #sadpanda

I drive in L only in stop and go traffic.

I have them. Bought them mail order from NY Ford dealer iirc. As a part of buying the car, I had them installed by the Austin dealer. They did a nice job.

No... Tesla BUYERS get an incentive. Tesla repaid their loan a while back with both interest and early payment penalties. Hydrogen is almost as bad as E85 in that to get the H2 you have to spend a lot of power to separate it from the water and transport it. Fuel cells were a nice idea, but energy negative.

See my tag below. For a car this expensive, pick a config and get several dealers to price it and order. You get exactly what you want and dealers get to fight for your business. A larger dealer should have a shorter order to delivery time, but it's based on sales so maybe find one that sells a lot of EVs (which won't be easy).

Might not get any traction in Austin, TX as $25 for 6 month of unlimited charging is what we have now. Since the city allows your solar production to even cover that you can drive for nearly free around town...

So far I don't know anyone that has gotten a capacity warranty info from Ford. IE my battery lost n% of charge after x miles... It's be nice to know so that I could be concerned I get 14-15 miles now when I used to clear 22 (not counting for winter/summer).

It might be because it is a Ford European web site and some options/parts do not correspond. Outside of that it is a cool listing of most of the options, it could be that after VIN assignment that the dealer made option changes (just a guess). It's also a way to find if there are any recall on your car (beside myfordowner.com that is).

It's been a week since mine, same issue. I was at 0 EV miles and even with a full battery, remotely shows 0. Shows 'correct' but let's nit get into my HVB loss of charge capacity here. It's also not allowing any of my saved value charges to work. I can set the default to delay charge, but only the default values. No changes get saved, ether in the car or remotely (app/web). You cannot change your value charge times in the car so I cannot test anything with them. I've reset the value charges back to value. After some random interval the car seems to change the user settings of the value charges including times and whether they are set to value charge. Very odd weirdness from a modem 'upgrade'.

Double check your value charge settings and that your default is to charge now.

I had a car for 23 years and over 225,000 miles. The last 3 times I got hit the checks went into the new car fund, including 2 times they 'totaled' it and I bought the car back for the salvage value. Once they only reduce the check I got so as to do it all in one transaction (totaled, payoff, and buyback). It was always just body damage, structurally and mechanically, the car was fine. I think in Texas, they can total out at 75 - 80% of value. Insurance only replaces the value of the car, not make you whole. I doubt I could have found a car like mine for the payout prices as I bought my car new and had all my records on it.

3.5 years and ~51,000 I'm down to 15 or so miles a charge going into winter. That said, I've only been treating my battery correctly for the last 2. The first year I charged to 100% as soon as I got home and to work. No thanks to Ford (not giving us any advice on it), I've discovered from other EV forums, that if I charge to 100% (which is all the time), I should do it as close to usage time as possible. Got this info from Leaf and Tesla forums. I read a paper on LiOn battery longevity and found that sitting 0% or 100% will shorten lifespan, as does charging while warm/hot (so delay & let it cool if possible).)