Doug0716

Forgot to come back and update this... better late than never? After taking my car to a different dealership, a few more times, I was finally able to get them to let me talk directly to the tech. We discovered that the service advisor kept describing my problem different than I had described it to them. I was able to walk them through the reproduction steps, they found the problem (bad resistance reading on a wire from the plug port), and replaced the plug port on the car. I'm happy to report that it has been working perfectly and disconnecting every time since the repair. Hope this might help somebody else in the future.

So I've been keeping a careful eye on this. Haven't had many disconnects prior to full charge since posting this but when needed I paid close attention. It appears that it wasn't a me being impatient issue before... sometimes the car just doesn't disconnect. I held it for over a minute on several occurrences with no disconnect. I've been having more and more problems with the car thinking it's still plugged in after it has been unplugged (properly), driven around on/off a few times then suddenly "Is the car plugged in?". Ugggh. While I was getting a key replaced I asked the Ford dealership to look at it and make sure it had all of the updates available. They had it for two days, did the key 30 min before I came to pick it up and told me they couldn't reproduce the problem and it was fully updated. I don't think it is because I still have the "X miles" displaying on my battery (which I hate to lose, but if a software update fixes the issue...) I guess my next step is to take it to a different dealership that I trust the service team a bit more and see what they say. I'll keep you guys updated in case anybody else is having (or has in the future, and searches) this problem. On edit: Whoops, meant to quote my last comment, sorry for the tag Murphy!

Glad they figured it out and your back up and running. Do you know what harness it was, maybe a picture would be helpful if it's a fairly visible part? I'd like to check on my 2015 and see if it potentially has a similar concern.

For what it's worth, the start system on this vehicle is consistent with the other Keyless vehicles I have had (06 Mercedes and 12 Kia) and I have not had any issues with it.

Both of my 12V plugs are dead (the in front of the shifter, and the one that is inside the arm rest), I can't find anywhere in the manual where it lists which fuse to look for and this car has 3 fuse boxes to try to track down (two under the hood and one under the steering wheel, well hidden). Does anybody know which fuse(s) I should check and any tips for getting into the damn fuse box under the steering wheel other than have my back and arms replaced with slinkies? I've tried doing some google searches and I keep getting hits for different models (ICE/Hybrid/ect) and people talking about fuses that I don't see so I figured maybe someone here could help. The usb ports under the arm rest work still, the NAV works, void commands work, the 120V port AND the 12V port at the back of the console (for the rear seats) both work... everything else seems to work except the two 12V ports. Any help would be appreciated and thanks in advance.

Lemon laws vary by state (in TX you're pretty much SOL after 2 years), just google your state and lemon law and you'll find the conditions. Ford corporate can't force the dealer to buy it back if it's not a lemon, but if you make a big enough fuss they may be willing to pay you to sign a piece of paper saying you won't talk about the problems you've had with your car... you could probably convince them to pay you for the cost of the extended warranty (especially if you bought the ford product) or to give you the warranty for free and you process a return of the one you bought through the dealership (that way they're not paying the salesman fees). That's the route I would go if I was you and decided to keep the car. Good luck.

Guess I've never been patient long enough (I usually don't pull it off when it's charging anyway) but tested it out today and sure enough... haha. Thanks :)

My check engine light comes on all the time if I unplug the car when it's at about 50-90% charge. I am using a Juicebox charger, though I'm not sure that is all that relevant? When I unplug it I immediately know it's about to happen because the ring starts flashing. Then when I get in the car and try to start it it asks if the car is still plugged in, I say no and it lets me start but the CEL stays on for a few days. Anybody else see this type of behavior. I can't remember what I did with my code reader so I haven't read the code yet, but since I know the cause I'm not too worried about it... just curious if it's the car or the JuiceBox that's not doing something right.

I'm not a huge fan of the back end. Really, all I could think when I saw those was how jealous I still am that the Titanium Energi didn't get the nicer looking exhaust and I doubt that'll change.

I think it might fly... (If we're going to make stuff up, make it count!)

Truth! So addicting.

Charge it fully once then drive it until the battery is at the long term storage percentage (I don't remember if it is 60% or 80%? check the manual or search more here) and then make sure it is in EV Later mode every time you drive. It will essentially act like a hybrid and the battery should hold up fine. You may need to charge it for an hour or two every now and then, before you go to sleep, to bring it back up to the range you want but I don't think it'll be an issue. Also: Some have parked on top of the charge cord, that way it can't be stolen... I'm not a fan of that method but I guess it's an option. Maybe if you got a plastic parking bump that the cable would fit through you could park on top of the plastic and the cable would be stuck under it and unable to be removed, but not parked on top of... something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Sure-Park-Garage-Parking-Guide/dp/B00KWHK81C/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1448826795&sr=8-8&keywords=parking+mat

It's always been meaningless to me. In another category, for efficient brake use, I've see people with 100%. To achieve a 100% efficiency rating you either have to be cheating or driving on roads w/ no red lights and no other drivers... or they just have the most amazing luck and never catch a yellow as they are approaching the light.

I pay 0.052300/kW here in North Texas before any taxes/fees. About 0.09/kW to 0.10 kW after taxes, depending on usage, which isn't too bad. It is 100% renewables and a 24/7 rate. It has gone down a bit since I signed my contract but such is life.

That's what this is asking about, at what temps has your vehicle forced the ice and displayed the "Engine on due to system performance" message? I've experienced this at 80+F, which was a bit surprising as I arrived home with a few miles of battery that I had saved in the morning to use on the drive home and the system couldn't use it. Now I just let it use what it wants in the morning on mid-summer days. My drive involves a lot of freeway (~70mph) with a couple miles of city driving on each end (total about 14 mi one way) and it has locked me out while on and after coming off the freeway so it's not just stop and go traffic. Now, mid summer months, I just use whatever battery I can on the way to work and hope it uses the rest of it on the way home before locking out.

Voted (Since that's what I bought already), thanks for adding it :) FusionNAZ, I didn't know they had a phone app now... I didn't get the WiFi option so I won't be able to use it, but I'm still curious so I'll have to go look it up. Thanks for the heads up.

Yes and they will need your VIN and the info about the dealership it is at so include that in your PM.

I usually keep mine at 74 and when it starts getting cold I bump it to 75 and it's a drastic difference. I think the system compensates for an adjustment when it's at the "max setting" and you adjust it away (ie go warmer when it's cooling). Also sometimes it seems that the car gets a bit warmer than other times when it's still set at 74 but I think it's partially humidity and direct sunlight (I wonder if any of it is the battery cooling and letting off heat into the cabin?)

It may not have been a transmission problem. I went through 3 transmissions in a previous (non-ford) vehicle only to have the shop finally discover a loose wire in the ECM connector.

My experience with the Telsa was mixed. In the drivers seat it seemed pretty quiet, but maybe I was just distracted by the fact that I was driving a damn Tesla... in the back seat though, the road noise was really loud. That was a stock Tesla vehicle from the manufacturer's "show store" (gotta love how they get around the "You can't sell your car in our state" laws). The Fusion is pretty quiet, though the ice is rough (nature of the efficient beast) which makes it a bit louder than the ANC can handle, IMHO. I don't hear any high frequency pitches from the inverter, and my hearing is pretty decent.

Thanks for the update. Keep them coming for us curious few and in case anybody else needs the info in the future. :)

I'm guessing it's covered under a maintenance/warranty plan. Some of them that are combined you have to get the oil change done at the interval or it will void the extended warranty.

It's also on their FAQ page: Plugless is ~12% less efficient than corded L2 30amp 240V charging systems and ~7% less efficient than corded Level 1 charging systems. https://www.pluglesspower.com/plugless-questions/

I only get faults when my car is dirty... which is explained in the owners manual so i can't really complain.

I get that you're frustrated but quite frankly you sound miserable to work with (even from the get go). If your attitude towards the car, and how you've referenced other people in this thread, are any indication of how you treat the staff at the dealership them I'm not surprised if they treat you worse than they might treat others. In fact I would probably do as little as the law would allow me to do.