rbort

It’s not about seating it’s about hammering and the outer shell gets loose from the inside part. Also they use excessive torque and sometimes you try to take them off by hand they are very hard to loosen. When you finally do the tire rim is stuck on the mounting surface and you have to rubber hammer it loose. Seen that in the past from high torque impact guns. my car has never seen that now almost 3 years old and I Rotate tires every 10k miles and they always fall off the mounting base when I remove the lug nuts. Just saying something to keep in mind. -=>Raja.

I think the real answer here is that they are damaged by impact guns. Repair shops set torque high and they hammer the crap out of the nuts with the impact air gun. If you remove and reinstall using a hand wrench they don’t “swell”. -=>Raja.

Absolutely, my driving score is very often 99 with 100% brake score. But you have to drive like a grandma and anticipate everything. Easier to do around town not on long trips down the highway. -=>Raja.

Makes sense, that car should get in the mid 40s mpg is driven properly at highway speed limit speeds. If you're going 80 then that's another story, more like in the 30's mpg. The more hybrid you drive, the less mpg, the more EV the more. If you average around 70mpg with this car for both, that's about right. Any higher than that you're using the battery too much in my opinion. -=>Raja.

Believe it or not I'm driving here in California the last 2 weeks and I'm driving (not speeding) on the freeway at 65mph and I have not been run over. You know, everyone says you can't you have to drive 80 or you're going to get killed. I also see some police on 15 trying to catch people who are speeding. On the side roads I'm doing what I normally do and if people get ahead then they do they are stupid to race to the lights and slam on the brakes. Doesn't matter to me I'm not in any rush but I know what you mean. I did drive to Arizona and learned that over there when you put a signal people actually slow down and let you in. Here in California people are crazy I saw a motorcycle race past me in the second lane (I was in the far right), then cut on a diagonal not even 50 feet infront of the car in front of me and right into the exit. I don't know how he made it looked like he was past the exit at least well past the solid lines that you're supposed to be inside to take the exit. Too many people in a rush around here, but it is what it is. I just keep a watchful eye on my surroundings and if I drive the speed limit on a side road sometimes I get tailgated. In that case if I feel they are too close I blink the hazard lights for them to send a signal to their stupid brains. Sorry to complain but yes I've seen alot of crazy stuff like that. -=>Raja.

The heater wastes alot of energy of the battery and is harder on the battery (more stress). Use the heat if you start the engine and warm it up but not the best idea to use the heat on battery only. Heat adds like 20 to 30 amps load on the battery meaning you are discharging it at least 1 bar more than anything you step on the accelerator, in other words if you are speeding up with 1 1/2 bars of power with heat at 20 degrees out its like being at 3 bars of power on the battery. In my opinion its best to use the battery for propulsion only. You can always dress for the cold. What do you do when you walk outside? No heat right? Correct. We are not wrapping ourselves in a plastic bag with heat inside. :) -=>Raja.

Driving in L is not the best idea, sometimes its too much regen. If you regen more than necessary and have to step on the accelerator again to make it to that red light well then you lost that battle and used more energy. Its always best to coast and not use the accelerator at all. You can regen with D or L or use the brake to vary regen manually. L has its place but its place is not all the time. You have many tools available to you with this car, even hill decent and N when necessary, you have to use the right setting for the moment. L is handy when you see a hill coming up or when you want to slow down on the highway because someone got in front of you, or you want to slow down to take the exit. Driving in L all the time I would expect that you would end up being less efficient, and overheating the HVB more due to heavier regen all the time. You start learning to keep moving to the red light and regen hard at the end with L to slow down to a stop where is you start slowly decelerating from a distance with light regen that would be better for the HVB. That also in turn gives the light a chance to turn green so you can skip stopping all together, a win win situation. Any speed you save even 5mph is better then none (coming to a full stop). Here is a simple example to teach you what I mean: You're driving and 2000 feet ahead a light turns yellow... a) you keep stepping on the gas in L to keep moving towards the light (wasting battery) and when you get close you remove your foot and regen hard to slow down where finally you press the brake below 5 mph and come to a full stop waiting at the light. Hard regen = battery temp rise. b) you immediately stop pressing the accelerator (gas for short above) and coast in D with light regen slowly losing speed towards the light. This takes longer to arrive at the light and there is nowhere to go anyways (red light ahead). Some people might get anxious behind you but stay calm if they want they can pass and race to the light to slam on the brake (stupid). Coasting in D is low regen better for the battery and you stopped using any battery since you stopped pressing on the gas 2000 feet ago. This way when you arrive at the light you use the brake to regen as necessary (will be lower since you have less speed) and make the full stop if necessary. In option b you'll have more battery left than in option a and you'll have a cooler battery also. Regen is not 100% back of energy so you always lose at least 10% if you accelerate and then regen back. Finally in option b taking longer to get to the light means there is a chance it will turn green and many times it does when you still have 20mph speed then you just step on the accelerator and keep going, sometimes passing the stupid person who raced to the light around you because they were stopped but have no worry they will floor it just to get ahead of you as quickly as possible since that's the only way they will feel good (that they passed you) :) It takes time to learn how to drive this car, but its alot of fun to do it!! I love all the options, keeps you busy making the best decisions for the road ahead. -=>Raja.

Hi Ryan and welcome to the Energi club! The most important thing about this car is balancing engine usage with the battery, and making sure you keep the battery as cool as possible. I highly recommend that you get a scangage to watch several parameters and protect your battery. I also live in Franklin so if you need pointers or lessons be glad to meet up and explain everything. It’s a great car I drive the CMAX version but it’s the same drivetrain so everything will apply. PM me if you want to meet up sometime. all the best and enjoy! -=>Raja.

Suggestions: #1 do not charge the battery at 110 degrees, you're going to ruin it in no time with it overheating. Use gas until the heat wave passes, and leave the battery like between 5 to 10% charged that's it. #2 To set value charge, (a bug in MFT), clear the weekday, clear the weekend, save cleared so nothing there. The set weekday, set weekend, and only THEN hit save. That will save both for you. Phoenix is hot so in reality you should only use your HVB in the winter time, gas otherwise, that is, if you want it to last. -=>Raja.

Its not hard to do to fix the tire with the rubber plug, and you can do it with the tire mounted right on the car. Front tires are easier, you can turn the steering so you can see the puncture from the top and fix it very easily. Rear tires a little harder, you'd have to put the puncture either at 3 or 9 o'clock and lay down to do the repair work if you do not remove the tire off the car. Also possible but as you get older it gets harder. Happy to say though in my 50's I can still do that no problem. The sealant doesn't ruin the tires but causes a mess. I remember many many years ago when I was a kid I used tire sealant on my first car but it didn't work. I took the car in to get the tire fixed. The guy removed the tire off the car, put it on the machine to remove the tire from the rim and did not take the air out first, just put the plate on the side and pushed down on the sidewall to break the seal. Well it blew out allright, and he got sealant all over him and the garage. I was watching through the window and couldn't help but laugh!! That was crazy, they were not happy with me with the sealant mess, but they did fix the tire by putting a rubber patch on the inside, that's what they did back in the day in the late 1980's. -=>Raja.

Never pay for a public charger, if you have to pay to charge, put in some gas its a whole lot quicker. I only charge at free public chargers as the price they charge is more than what it should cost. -=>Raja.

Umm...yeah :) -=>Raja.

Its best to carry the tire repair kit with you, a needle, a rubber strip, some goop clue, and the rasping tool. You use that to fill the hole, and the compressor WITHOUT sealant to put air back into the tire. Use sealant only as a last resort as its known to damage the tire pressure sensors. You also need pliers to pull the metal object out. -=>Raja.

Locked or unlocked doesn't make a hill of beans, totally agree with Murphy. Now look here, the thing only lasted 3 1/2 weeks not even 6!! Next time either jump it with a big deep cycle battery or put it on a trickle charger :) FYI as I said before, my Cmax lasted 4 weeks with a 12v deepcycle connected to it, and yes FYI its unlocked I never lock it inside the garage. If you want to know the cause, disconnected the negative cable off the battery, and then connect it through a voltmeter on 10 amps in series to read the current. Lock or don't lock and leave the car alone for a few minutes until everything times out, then come back and look and see what draw you have on the voltmeter. That is your parasitic draw of the car's computer/power systems/modules that are "sleeping" in the background waiting for you to access it via the remote or the door handle or MFM. That amount is a constant drain on the battery, and then you take the size of your battery and you can calculate how many hours or days it can last. That's it, its not a big secret, there is always some draw and if you never use the car its going to kill the battery is so many days, how many depends on how new the battery is, (new meaning how much capacity is now has), and how well charged it is. -=>Raja.

$273 for the AGM battery? You can get two stock batteries for that price.. I'm glad I live up north, we get the full spectrum of weather here, where in Texas its only two options most of the time, hot or hotter...?? Heat is not good for batteries, it will also destroy your HVB prematurely if you don't watch the temperature carefully, and if you do watch it you'll find out its best not to use the car on hot days at all, try to keep the HVB as cool as possible and discharged as much as possible, like 5 to 25% max. Even with that its going to live a shorter life compared to being in a cooler climate. -=>Raja.

#1 I would tend to think that most cars will not last 6 weeks without being started, their 12v batteries could very well die in that time frame, especially if they are not new and the capacity is not as big as it used to be. #2 The Cmax and Fusion have smaller 12v batteries (read less capacity) because there is no requirement to crank the engine, only to close the contacts to power up the HVB to start the car. #3 If you're worried about a storm, and personally I don't like to leave chargers going while I'm not home, then just do what I do. I have two 100 amp deep cycle 12v batteries. All you need to do it jump it to your car and now you have tripled your capacity to say the least. I've done this on my Cmax and its been able to last just about 1 month unused while I was away. I use the other deep cycle to jump my wife's car. I made cigarette lighter plug jumpers with alligator clips on the battery side so its easy. Better than leaving a charger running for 1 month, and when I got home I just recharge the deep cycle battery and put it away. #4 Batteries can last alot more than 3 years, for me about 10 years depending on what you're doing. Capacity goes down slowly over time, and by the 10th year it gets to the point where if you leave the headlights on for 5 minutes the car won't start any more. However if you don't and drive the car to work daily and it starts fairly quickly when you crank it, then sure you can go 10 years. Depends on your car, how much you drive it, and how easily it starts. Once the capacity is less than desired, you replace the battery. #5 Your battery should still work, though it most likely too a capacity hit from being discharged to zero. You can still use it, and go along as usual until it can't last between uses then you need to replace it. #6 If you install a larger battery, it should be able to sit longer without the car being used. Its the same idea as jumping the stock battery while away. Hope this helps, -=>Raja.

If you're going to leave the car sit for that long, get a 2nd deep cycle battery and plug it into the cigarette lighter that doesn't turn off if you have one (in my Cmax its the one in the rear), or put a trickle charger on your battery. Don't expect the battery to be warrantied out, you killed it yourself by leaving the car for 6 weeks. There is always some draw on the battery even while off, and no battery even a new one is going to not die after 6 weeks. You can recharge a dead battery, but you lose some life by having killed it. -=>Raja.

Haven't been here in a while, but let me just say a couple of things: a) the 12v battery is charged all the time while charging the HVB, its not only at the end. Who said it was at the end and why did they think that? b) Driving the car on very hot days on the battery and charging the battery on very hot days is bad for the HVB. You should refrain from using it as much during the hot summer weather. Don't charge it as much and use the engine more. c) 120v charging is very good for the battery and better than 240v. Forget about efficiency that everyone raves about, its about not building as much heat on the battery and in turn not degrading it as much. In fact you can use 120v charging at the end of a drive late at night to lower the HVB temperature. You can read about it here back on the Cmax forum: http://fordcmaxenergiforum.com/topic/8197-240v-30amp-hvb-temperature-rise-or-lack-at-69f-outdoor-temperature/ You should use 240v charging sparingly especially during the summer months. In the winter time it doesn't matter as much, however when not in a rush 120v charging is always better than 240v in my opinion (forget about efficiency) -=>Raja.

Thankfully yes!! -=>Raja.

Is this one on the verge of expiring too?? Anyone know anything about this, I hope the domain will be renewed there but not sure? -=>Raja.

I use 120v at home always and only. Would never invest in a 240v at home. 240v on the road is free for me. At home you can put a kill a watt meter on it: https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1543272934&sr=8-4&keywords=power+meters To see how many kwh you take to recharge the car. Buying a 240v for home usage could get you into trouble. It allows for quick recharging which means you may tend to make more in and out trips and recharge in between. That in turn makes for a hotter battery back and more degradation over time. 240v at home is a double edged sword... :) And don't expect that 240v efficiency over 120v is going to save you any money. The money you spend to install it will never be recooped by the 8% efficiency savings that are claimed. My electricity is also free at home due to solar panels, but in reality its not free as I get less credit on my bill when I charge more. Credit I can use in the cold dark winter months so to speak. -=>Raja.

Yes it depends. While its nice for the battery to cool the air around it, the AC puts a load on the battery which raises its temperature. I believe that the ambient temperature around the battery being cooler is less efficient than the battery itself heating up more from AC demand. I would say run the AC for yourself if you need it. if you can open a window and live without it then go for that instead. Also if you are home and its hot outside and you know you need the AC, plug in the car, turn it on, cool the car down so the initial high power demand for the AC comes mostly from the wall power, and then once the car is cooled off, disconnect the charger and drive off. If you don't need to go out during the heat of the say, skip the 2nd paragraph all together and wait until the evening before going out on town on EV power. At that time you can probably open all the windows and drive in somewhat cooler temps without the need for AC and without having your car bake in the hot sun as you run into the store. (bad). -=>Raja.

How can a leaky injector add fuel to the oil? The injector puts gas in the cylinder, you mean its unburned and blows by through your bad rings which are supposed to keep the fuel topside? I'm not sure I would worry about it that much. However, might not be a bad idea to use 5w20 instead of 0w20 in case it thins a little bit you'd still be in spec. Ford used to recommend 5w-20 on the 2013 models, I think they switched to 0w-20 to eeek out a little bit more gas mileage. -=>Raja.

Only 2 cents per kwh for electricity, wow, they are giving it away in IL!! -=>Raja.

Arrogance? Oooh, sorry I replied, I guess I should keep my mouth shut :( Was trying to help now I got in trouble... -=>Raja.